Stitch Samples and Needle Chart
Stitch Samples
1 Set stitch length regulator to
Thread Tension | ✽✽ Bobbin thread should feed smoothly. Adjust bobbin |
thread to match that of upper thread. (If bobbin | |
| thread is too tight it may cause fabric to bunch up.) |
desired stitch length.
2 Make sure approximately 15 cm of upper thread is pulled out and laying behind presser foot. While needle is in raised position, insert a test strip from the garment fabric under the foot.
3 Lower presser foot.
4 Turn the hand wheel forward to lower the needle through the fabric, then step gently on the foot controller to begin.
Correct thread tension
Fabric
Upper
Thread
Lower
Thread
Incorrect thread tension can lead to such undesirable results as messy stitches, puckered seams and thread breakage.
Wrong side of fabric | to increase | ||
|
| ||
| Lower | needle | |
| thread | ||
| Thread | ||
| tension | ||
Right side of Fabric |
| ||
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| ||
| Upper |
| |
| Thread |
| |
Bobbin tension . . . | Proper |
| |
When it is strong | |||
| |||
Wrong side of fabric | to reduce | ||
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| ||
| Lower | needle | |
| thread | ||
| Thread | ||
| tension | ||
Right side of Fabric |
| ||
|
| ||
| Upper |
| |
| Thread |
| |
Bobbin tension . . . | Proper |
| |
When it is week | |||
| |||
to reduce bobbin tension
to increase bobbin tension
.thread bobbin the match to thread upper the Adjust
●● Selecting the proper needle for use with the fabric and thread you are working with
✽✽ The following chart applies to many different fabric, thread and needle combinations.
5 Turn the hand wheel towards you to raise the needle and thread
6 Lift presser foot, remove fabric and then manually cut the thread with the cutter on the left side of the head of the machine or with a pair of scissors.
✽✽ When using thread cutter:
|
| Fabric - Thread - Needles |
|
| Cloth | Thread | Needle (HLX5) |
Specialty | Velvet | Silk, Polyester #30 – #50 | #11 – #14 |
fabrics | Quilt | Polyester #20 – #50 | #11 – #16 |
| Synthetic Suede | Polyester #20 – #50 |
|
| Knit | Polyester #20 – #50 |
|
| Coating | Polyester #50 | #11 – #14 |
Light | Lawn | Cotton #80 | #9 |
weight | Tricot | Polyester #60 |
|
fabrics | Silk Georgette | Silk #50 |
|
| Wool Georgette | Silk, Polyester #50 | #11 |
Middle | Gingham | Cotton #60 – #80 | #11 – #14 |
weight | Lightweight Jersey | Polyester #60 | #11 |
fabrics | Gabardine, Flannel | Silk #50 |
|
Heavy | Denim | Cotton #20 – #50 | #14 – #18 |
weight | Jersey | Polyester #20 – #50 | #11 – #16 |
fabrics | Tweed | Silk #20 – #50 |
|
HLX5 Schmetz 130/705H
#9 #65
#11 #75
#14 #90
#16 #100
#18 #110
5 Press the thread cutter button while the presser foot lever in the down position.
6 Lift foot and remove fabric.
16
✽✽ HLX5 needles are recommended; however, Schmetz 130/705H needles may also be used under normal sewing conditions.
✽✽ Adjust the pressure adjustment dial and the feed dog adjustment knob according to the chart on the sewing machine.
✽✽ When sewing on knit fabrics such as jersey or tricot, use a ballpoint needle or a needle designed for use with knit fabrics.