BEVEL CUTS
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade leaning at an angle to the wood. In order to set the bevel, loosen the bevel lock (Fig. 4), and move the saw to the left or right as desired. (It is necessary to move the fence to allow clearance.) Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the bevel lock firmly. Refer to the Features and Controls section for detailed instructions on the bevel system.
Bevel angles can be set from 49º right to 49º left and can be cut with the miter arm set between 50º left or 60º right. At some extreme angles, the right or left side fence might have to be removed. To remove the left or right fence, unscrew the fence adjustment knob several turns and slide the fence out. NOTE: Refer to Fence Adjustment in the Adjustments section for important information on adjusting the fences for certain bevel cuts.
QUALITY OF CUT
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that the material does not move or creep while cutting; clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape when finished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended saw blades for your saw and select the one that best fits your needs. Refer to Saw Blades under Optional Accessories.
BODY AND HAND POSITION (FIG. 9A, 9B)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the miter saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands no closer than 6" (152 mm) from the blade. Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands in position until the trigger has been released and the blade has completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT YOU CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN IN FIGURE 9B.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance. As you move the miter arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the guard louvers when following a pencil line.
CLAMPING THE WORKPIECE
WARNING: To reduce the risk of injury, turn unit off and disconnect it from power source before installing
and removing accessories, before adjusting or when making repairs. An accidental
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable surface. Personal injury may occur.
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw – not to any other part of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of the saw.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece damage and personal injury, if your hands are required to be within 6" of the blade during the cut.
FIG. 9A |
PROPER CUT |
FIG. 9B |
IMPROPER CUT |
9 |
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand (irregular shape, etc.), or your hand would be less than 6" (152 mm) from the blade, a clamp or other fixture must be used.
Use the material clamp provided with your saw. To purchase the material clamp, contact your local retailer or DEWALT service center.
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or
TO INSTALL CLAMP
1.Insert it into the hole behind the fence. The clamp should be facing toward the back of the miter saw. The groove on the clamp rod should be fully inserted into the base. Ensure this groove is fully inserted into the base of the miter saw. If the groove is visible, the clamp will not be secure.
2.Rotate the clamp 180º toward the front of the miter saw.
3.Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use the fine adjust knob to firmly clamp the workpiece.
NOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS.
ADJUSTMENTS
WARNING: To reduce the risk of injury, turn unit off and disconnect it from power source before installing and removing accessories, before adjusting or when making repairs. An accidental
Your miter saw is fully and accurately adjusted at the factory at the time of manufacture. If readjustment due to shipping and handling or any other reason is required, follow the instructions below to adjust your saw.
Once made, these adjustments should remain accurate. Take a little time now to follow these directions carefully to maintain the accuracy of which your saw is capable.
MITER SCALE ADJUSTMENT (FIG. 5, 10)
Lock the arm in the down position. Unlock the miter lock handle and swing the miter arm until the miter latch button locks it at the 0° miter position. Do not lock the miter lock handle. Place a square against the saw’s fence and blade, as shown. (Do not touch the tips of the blade teeth with the square. To do so will cause an inaccurate measurement.) If the saw blade is not exactly perpendicular to the fence, loosen the four screws that hold the miter scale and move the miter lock handle and the scale left or right until the blade is perpendicular to the fence, as measured with the square. Retighten the four screws. Pay no attention to the reading of the miter pointer at this time.
English