TO INSTALL CLAMP
1.Insert it into the hole behind the fence. The clamp should be facing toward the back of the miter saw. The groove on the clamp rod should be fully inserted into the base. Ensure this groove is fully inserted into the base of the miter saw.
If the groove is visible, the clamp will not be secure.
2.Rotate the clamp 180º toward the front of the miter saw.
3.Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use the fine adjust knob to firmly clamp the workpiece.
NOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling.
ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS.
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable surface.
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw–not to any other part of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of the saw.
SUPPORT FOR LONG PIECES
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change accessories or make any adjustments accept as written in laser adjustment instructions.
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES.
Never use another person as a substitute for a table extension; as additional support for a workpiece that is longer or wider than the basic miter saw table or to help feed, support or pull the workpiece.
For best results, use the DW7080 extension work support to extend the table width of your saw. Available from your dealer at extra cost. Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.
CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES AND OTHER FOUR-SIDED PROJECTS
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a “FEEL” for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one shown in Figure 14. Sketch A in Figure 15 shows a joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two boards at 45º each to produce a 90º corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the zero position and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45º. The wood was positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence. The cut could also be made by mitering right and left with the broad surface against the fence.
CUTTING TRIM MOLDING AND OTHER FRAMES
Sketch B in Figure 14 shows a joint made by setting the miter arm at 45º to miter the two boards to form a 90º corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and the miter arm to 45º. Once again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
The two sketches in Figure 15 are for four side objects only.
A
B
FIG. 16
ANGLE “A”
As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes.
(The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length.) For a shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula. 180º divided by the number of sides equals the miter (if the material is cut vertically) or bevel angle (if the material is cut laying flat).
| - EXAMPLES - |
NO. SIDES | | ANGLE MITER OR BEVEL |
4 | | 45° |
5 | | 36° |
6 | | 30° |
7 | | 25.7° |
8 | | 22.5° |
9 | | 20° |
10 | | 18° |
CUTTING COMPOUND MITERS
A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a bevel angle at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in Figure 16.
NOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel clamp knob and the miter lock knob are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any changes in bevel or miter.
The chart shown on page 13 will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and miter settings for common compound miter cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle “A” (Figure 16) of your project and locate that angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across to find the correct miter angle.
Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts. Practice fitting the cut pieces together until you develop a feel for this procedure and feel comfortable with it.
Example: To make a 4 sided box with 26º exterior angles (Angle A, Figure 16), use the upper right arc. Find 26° on the arc scale. Follow the horizontal intersecting line to either side to get miter angle setting on saw (42°).
Likewise, follow the vertical intersecting line to the top or bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (18°). Always try cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify settings on saw.
CUTTING BASE MOLDING
ALWAYS MAKE A DRY RUN WITHOUT POWER BEFORE MAKING ANY CUTS.
Straight 90º cuts:
Position the wood against the fence and hold it in place as shown in Figure 11. Turn on the saw, allow the blade to reach full speed and lower the arm smoothly through the cut.
CUTTING BASE MOLDING UP TO 121 mm (4.75") HIGH VERTICALLY AGAINST THE FENCE
Position material as shown in Figure 11.
All cuts made with the back of the molding against the fence and bottom of the molding against the base.
INSIDE CORNER: Left side
1.Miter left 45°
2.Save left side of cut Right side
1.Miter Right 45°
2.Save right side of cut
OUTSIDE CORNER: Left side
1.Miter right at 45°
2.Save left side of cut Right side
1.Miter left at 45°
2.Save right side of cut
Material up to 159 mm (6.5") can be cut as described above.
CUTTING CROWN MOLDING
Your miter saw is better suited to the task of cutting crown molding than any other type tool made. In order to fit properly, crown molding must be compound mitered with extreme accuracy.
The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding are at angles that, when added together, equal exactly 90º. Most, but not all, crown molding has a top rear angle (the section that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52º and a bottom rear angle (the part that fits flat against the wall) of 38º.
Your miter saw has special pre-set miter latch points at 31.62º left and right for cutting crown molding at the proper angle and bevel stop pawls at 33.85º left and right. There is also a mark on the Bevel scale at 33.85º.
The chart below gives the proper settings for cutting crown molding. (The numbers for the miter and bevel
settings are very precise and are not easy to accurately set on your saw.) Since most rooms do not have angles of precisely 90º, you will have to fine tune your settings anyway.
PRETESTING WITH SCRAP MATERIAL
IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CUTTING CROWN MOLDING LAYING FLAT AND USING THE COMPOUND FEATURES
1.Molding laying with broad back surface down flat on saw table (Figure 17).
2.The settings below are for All Standard (U.S.) crown molding with 52° and 38° angles.
