6 | Installation |
IWTS Series
Installing the Mounting Frame
The clamping mechanism allows the wall material to range from ½ to 1½ inches (13 to 38 mm) in thickness. There must be a mini- mum depth behind the wall face of 3 5⁄8” (92 mm).As noted above, be sure to keep the edges of the cutout at least ½ inch (13 mm) away from any stud or obstruc- tion, as the rotating clamps will not operate properly if you don’t. Insert the frame into the cutout and using a level or square care- fully align it so it is level. Tighten the mounting screws, which will
cause the attached clamps to rotate and position themselves properly behind the wall.
Continue to tighten until the frame is snug in the wall.You want the bezel to conform to the wallboard,and the frame not to rattle from the speaker’s vibration, but be very careful not to overtighten the screws.
Painting the Speaker Assembly
The white plastic frame and the metal grille may be left as is, or painted to match your décor. You can paint the frame before or after it is installed in the wall. Spray painting (using slightly thinned paint) is the best method to use for painting the grille. After painting the grille, use air pressure to“blow out” any grille holes that are filled in with paint.
Speaker Connection and Assembly
Strip about ½” (13 mm) of insulation from the connecting wires. Connect them to the appropriate push terminal, being careful to observe polarity (positive to the red terminal, negative to the black terminal).
Installing the Speaker Enclosure into the Frame
Once the frame is mounted in the wall,the speaker simply fits into the frame.Note that there is a gasket around the edge of the MDF baffle.This gasket ensures an airtight fit between the baffle and the frame.Therefore, the baffle may fit tightly in the frame.This is normal.
Use the included screws to attach the baffle to the mounting frame,but be very careful not to overtighten the screws.
