FILLING TANK
1.Close the drain valve, and then open a hot water faucet.
2.Open the cold water supply valve.
3.When water runs out of the hot faucet, the tank is full.
4.Check the system for leaks.
NOTE: When filling, avoid water spillage. Do not allow the insulation of the heater to get wet as water can cause electrical malfunction.
DRAINING TANK (completely)
If the power is to be turned off during the cold season and the tank is exposed to freezing temperatures, the water heater must be drained. Water will expand when it freezes and can damage the heater.
Completely drain as follows:
1.Make sure the electrical supply to the water heater is “OFF”.
2.Turn off cold water supply.
3.Connect a garden hose to the end of the drain valve and direct this to a point lower than the heater.
4.Open a hot water faucet.
5.Open the drain valve on the heater – drain, keeping the drain valve open during the shutdown period.
6.To refill the heater, see ‘Filling Tank’ section.
INSTALLATION CHECK LIST | Check Here |
1.Are the fuse and wire sizes correct?
2.Is the certified relief valve installed?
3.Are you sure that in case of water leakage, the building, furniture, carpeting or other property will not be damaged?
4.Has the relief valve been piped to a suitable drain point?
5.Is the relief valve discharge unobstructed?
6.Is the heater completely filled with water?
7.Is the cold supply valve open?
If the answer to the above are yes, turn on the power and enjoy all the hot water you need, all the time.
RELIEF VALVE REQUIREMENTS
CAUTION To reduce the risk of excessive pressures and temperatures in this water heater, install temperature and pressure protective equipment required by local codes. It should be no less than a combination temperature and pressure relief valve certified by a nationally recognized testing laboratory that maintains periodic inspection of production of listed equipment or materials, as meeting the Requirements for Relief Valves and Automatic Gas Shut-off Devices for Hot Water Supply Systems, ANSI Z21.22-latest edition. This valve must be marked with a maximum set pressure not to exceed the marked MAXIMUM working pressure of the water heater (150 PSI). Install the valve into an opening provided and marked for this purpose in the water heater, and orient it or provide tubing so that any discharge from the valve will exit only within 6 inches above, or at any distance below the structural floor and cannot contact any live electrical part. The discharge opening must not be blocked or reduced in size under any circumstances.
The end of the relief pipe opening should terminate near a floor drain or other suitable location not subject to blocking or freezing. DO NOT thread, plug or cap the relief pipe opening.
FAILURE TO INSTALL A LISTED ¾” TEMPERATURE - PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE WILL RELEASE THE MANUFACTURER FROM ANY CLAIM WHICH MIGHT RESULT FROM EXESSIVE TEMPERATURES AND PRESSURES.
TEMPERATURE & PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
Inspect the relief valve annually to ensure proper operation. This involves opening the valve to check that water is able to flow freely, and that there are no blockages. Warning: THE WATER WILL BE HOT and its flow can be forceful. Provide a bucket or drainage for the expelled water. Lift the lever and let it snap shut. The water should stop immediately.
If the valve does not function properly, it MUST be replaced. In systems where the relief valve discharges periodically, this may be due to thermal expansion causing pressure build up. See ‘Pressure Build-Up (Thermal Expansion’ section.
CAUTION
FOR YOUR SAFETY, BE AWARE THIS WATER HEATER IS CAPABLE OF PRODUCING HOT WATER AT A TEMPERATURE SUFFICIENT ENOUGH TO CAUSE SCALDING INJURY. READ INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE OPERATING THIS UNIT. INCREASING THE THERMOSTAT SETTING ABOVE THE PRE-SET TEMPERATURE MAY CAUSE SEVERE BURNS AND CONSUME EXCESSIVE ENERGY. HOTTER WATER INCREASES THE RISK OF SCALD INJURY.
150°F (66°C) – 2 SECONDS
140°F (60°C) – 6 SECONDS
130°F (54°C) – 30 SECONDS
TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT
In order to reduce the risk of scald injury, thermostats are factory set at 120°F (49°C). The thermostats operate automatically. They can be adjusted to provide warmer or cooler water temperature. The setting of 120°F (49°C) has been proven to be most satisfactory from the standpoint of operational costs and safety. We recommend you keep the thermostats adjusted to 120°F (49°C). If adjustments are made set both thermostats to the SAME setting (if applicable).
TEMPERATURE LIMIT CONTROL
For safety, a non-adjustable high limit temperature switch will shut off the power when excessive water temperatures are reached. This switch must be re-set manually. See ‘Trouble-Shooting’section.
WARNING BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY ELECTRICAL REPAIRS OR REPLACEMENTS, TURN OFF POWER TO THE WATER HEATER. CHECK WITH A VOLTAGE TESTER AT TERMINAL 1 AND 3 OF THE LIMIT CONTROL THAT POWER IS INDEED OFF. FAILURE TO DO SO MAY RESULT IN ELECTRIC SHOCK AND/OR ELECTROCUTION OF THE PERSON DOING THE WORK.
If water temperature adjustment is required:
1.Turn the electrical supply to the water heater “OFF”.
2.Remove the access door(s), and turn back insulation.
3.Adjust the thermostat(s) to the water temperature desired (if a two- thermostat system exists, set both thermostats at the same temperature).
4.Repack the insulation and replace access door(s).
5.Turn the electrical supply to the water heater “ON”.
ELEMENT REPLACEMENT
1.See ‘Draining Tank’ section to remove water from the heater.
2.Turn the electrical supply to the water heater “OFF”.
3.Remove the access door(s), and turn back insulation.
4.Disconnect wires from heating element terminals.
5.Unscrew the element using a 1½” socket wrench or tool number S1008, available from your water heater distributor.
6.Replace element with new one, taking care that sealing gasket is in the groove of element flange.
7.Re-connect wiring, and replace Di-Electric shields.
8.Repack insulation over thermostat(s), and replace access door(s).
9.Fill tank with water BEFORE turning ELECTRICITY on. See ‘Filling Tank’ section.
THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT
1.Turn the electrical supply to the water heater “OFF”.
2.Remove the access door(s), and turn back insulation.
3.Disconnect wires from thermostat(s).
4.Lift prongs off bracket and slide thermostat up and out.
5.Replace in reverse order, taking care that thermostat(s) is flush against the tank.
6.Repack insulation over thermostat(s), and replace access door(s).
7.Turn the electrical supply to the water heater “ON”.
CATHODIC PROTECTION: ANODE MAINTENANCE
Your water heater has been supplied with an anode rod that protects the tank from corrosion. As the rod works, it slowly dissolves over time and must be replaced. If the anode is less than 3/8” diameter, or any exposed bare core, replace. Depending on water conditions, an anode can last from one to ten years. Many localities treat their water, which can have significant effect on the life of your heater. Water conditioning such as over softening can accelerate the rate at which the anode rod is consumed. Rapid depletion can leave a heater unprotected causing a premature failure. As with any water heater, it is good practice to check the anode annually to see if it needs replacing.
