Temperature Limit Control
For safety, a
WARNING! BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY ELECTRICAL REPAIRS OR REPLACEMENTS, TURN OFF POWER TO THE WATER HEATER. CHECK WITH A VOLTAGE TESTER AT TER- MINAL 1 AND 3 OF THE LIMIT CONTROL THAT POWER IS INDEED OFF. FAILURE TO DO SO MAY RESULT IN ELECTRIC SHOCK AND/OR ELECTROCUTION OF THE PERSON DOING THE WORK.
If water temperature adjustment is required:
1.Turn the electrical supply to the water heater "OFF".
2.Remove the access door(s), and turn back insulation.
3.Adjust the thermostat(s) to the water temperature desired (if a two thermostat system exists, set both thermostats at the same tempera- ture).
4.Repack the insulation and replace access door(s).
5.Turn the electrical supply to the water heater "ON".
V) MAINTENANCE
Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve
Inspect the relief valve annually to ensure proper operation. This involves opening the valve to check that water is able to flow freely, and that there are no blockages. Warning: THE WATER WILL BE HOT and its flow can be forceful. Provide a bucket or drainage for the expelled water. Lift the lever and let it snap shut. The water should stop immediately. If the valve does not function properly, it MUST be replaced. In systems where the relief valve discharges periodically, this may be due to thermal expan- sion causing pressure build up. See 'Pressure
Element Replacement
1.See 'Draining Tank' section to remove water from the heater.
2.Turn the electrical supply to the water heater "OFF".
3.Remove the access door(s), and turn back insulation.
4.Disconnect wires from heating element terminals.
5.Unscrew the element using a 1½" socket wrench or tool number S1008, available from your water heater distributor.
6.Replace element with new one, taking care that sealing gasket is in the groove of element flange.
7.
8.Repack insulation over thermostat(s), and replace access door(s).
9.Fill tank with water BEFORE turning ELECTRICITY on. See 'Filling Tank' section.
Thermostat Replacement
1.Turn the electrical supply to the water heater "OFF".
2.Remove the access door(s), and turn back insulation.
3.Disconnect wires from thermostat(s).
4.Lift prongs off bracket and slide thermostat up and out.
5.Replace in reverse order, taking care that thermostat(s) is flush against the tank.
6.Repack insulation over thermostat(s), and replace access door(s).
7.Turn the electrical supply to the water heater "ON".
Cathodic Protection: Anode Maintenance
Your water heater has been supplied with an anode rod that protects the tank from corrosion. As the rod works, it slowly dissolves over time and must be replaced. If the anode is less than 3/8" diameter, or any exposed bare core, replace. Depending on water conditions, an anode can last from one to ten years. Many localities treat their water, which can have significant effect on the life of your heater. Water conditioning such as over softening can accelerate the rate at which the anode rod is con- sumed. Rapid depletion can leave a heater unprotected causing a prema- ture failure. As with any water heater, it is good practice to check the anode annually to see if it needs replacing.
Anode Inspection/Change
1.Turn the electrical supply to the water heater "OFF".
2.Close the cold inlet supply valve.
3.Open a hot water tap supplied by the heater. (CAUTION: Water will be hot).
4.See 'Draining Tank' section to remove enough water to empty the pip- ing system.
5.Using a 1 1/16" socket, remove anode and inspect or replace as required.
6.To refill the heater, see 'Filling Tank' section.
Operating a water heater without an actively working anode rod will void the warranty.
Tank Clean-Out
1.A
2.To clean heater through the
a)Remove outer door from side of the casing.
b)Peel back the insulation covering the
c)Remove the six (6) hex head screws securing the tank
d)Remove lime, scale or sediment using care not to damage the glass lining of the tank.
e)Inspect the
f)Install the
g)Position the insulation, and replace the door.
Trouble-Shooting
Follow the preceding instructions carefully and your heater should pro- vide long and trouble free service. If problems do arise however, the fol- lowing will be of assistance.
Not Enough Or No Hot Water
1.Make sure the electrical supply to the water heater is "ON".
2.Check for loose or blown fuses and loose connections in the water heater circuit.
3.If the water was too hot and is now cold, the high limit temperature switch may have operated. To reset this, proceed as follows:
a)Turn the electrical supply to the water heater "OFF".
b)Remove the access door then turn back the insulation.
c)Reset the control by pushing in the red button marked 'RESET'.
d)Repack the insulation then replace access door.
e)Turn the electrical supply to the water heater "ON".
4.The capacity of the tank may have been exceeded by large demands of hot water. Wait at least one hour then check for hot water at normal hot water faucet.
5.The incoming cold water may be colder because it is winter. If so, it will take longer to heat the water.
6.If none of the above result in adequate hot water, call a service person.
7.If there is no HOT water, check the upper element.
8.If there is limited HOT water, check the lower element.
9.If water is LUKEWARM check for proper incoming voltage.
Water Leakage Is Suspected
1.Check all pipes and fittings for leaks, including the drain valve, ele- ment(s) and relief valve.
2.See if the apparent leakage might be condensation. In warm or humid locations, condensation can accumulate and run from the heater and piping.
3.If leakage is from the relief valve discharge pipe, it may represent a normal condition. Call a service person to check the valve carefully.
4.If you cannot identify or correct the source of leakage:
a)Turn off electrical supply to he heater.
b)Close the cold water inlet valve to the heater.
c)Open a hot water faucet.
d)Contact a qualified plumber or service person.
Water Is Too Hot
Adjust the thermostats to a lower setting. See 'Temperature Adjustment' section. It is imperative that the thermostat is flush against the tank. See 'Thermostat Replacement' section.
Hot Water Odour
On occasion, and depending on your location, hot water may develop a strong odour. This can be especially problematic in regions where the water contains some sulphur, which results in hot water having a "rotten egg" smell. If this occurs, drain the system completely, flush thoroughly and refill. If the problem persists, the anode rod may need to be changed from magnesium to one made of aluminum. In certain cases chlorinating and flushing of the water heater may be required. Contact your dealer or water supplier.
Discoloured Water
·Water rich in iron or other minerals can produce red or brown staining. Heating water generally worsens this situation.
·Black water can be an indication of organic contaminates in the water supply. This can be problematic in areas where the water is obtained from surface or contaminated sources. Organic particles can develop bacterial growth, causing potential health hazards. Contact your water supplier for proper filtration or water conditioning equipment. For bac- terial problems contact your local health authority.
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