JBL manual JBL Control 1X/1Xtreme/One, Exploded View, Driver Replacement

JBL Control® 1X/1Xtreme/One

JBL Loudspeaker Troubleshooting/Repair Tips

Most customers prefer to do simple loudspeaker repairs themselves. By following the steps below, a majority of loudspeakers can be returned to their original factory performance with minimum effort. Choose the example that best describes the problem you are experiencing.

Problem 1: No sound or distorted sound from one loudspeaker in a pair (or set)

Connect the dead/distorting loudspeaker to a different amplifier channel (one that had a functioning loudspeaker connected to it). If it functions normally, the problem is not loudspeaker-related. If the loudspeaker still makes no sound or sounds distorted, a wire may have become loose or disconnected, the network (also known as a crossover) may be defective, the drivers (woofer, tweeter, etc.) may be defective or, in very rare cases, all may be defective.

Refer to the wiring diagram and exploded view below. The network is a small circuit board found on the inside of the terminal cup, or mounted to an inside wall of the enclosure. It sends low-frequency sounds to the woofer, high-frequency sounds to the tweeter and, if applicable, mid-frequency sounds to the midrange driver. Make sure all wires are secure and connected. Look for components on the network that look burnt, “bulged,”

or abnormal. If everything looks normal, connect the network to the drivers from another matching loudspeaker. MAKE SURE you attach the correct wires to each driver – mid- and low-frequency sounds can damage the tweeter! If there is still no sound or distorted sound, the network is defective. If there is clean undistorted sound, the drivers are defective.

Problem 2: No sound or distorted sound from one or more (but not all) drivers in an enclosure

Remove the problem driver(s) from the enclosure and make sure all wires are secure and connected. If they are, proceed with the following test: Woofer or midrange driver – Connect the driver’s + and – input terminals directly to the loudspeaker wires from your receiver/amplifier and play some music at a reasonable volume. If the driver now sounds normal (produces a clean, undistorted sound), the network is most likely defective. Tweeter – Replace the tweeter with a functioning tweeter from another loudspeaker. If the tweeter now functions normally (produces clean, undistorted sound), the original tweeter is defective. If the replacement tweeter also sounds distorted or produces no sound, the network is most likely defective.

Problem 3: Loudspeakers distort, rattle or pop at higher volumes

This is usually NOT a loudspeaker problem. Common causes are too much power (playing the loudspeakers too loud and causing them to distort), an amplifier with not enough power (the amplifier can’t produce the required volume without distorting), excessive equalization (turning the tone controls too far clockwise, and/or engaging the loudness/bass boost button on your receiver) or some combination of the above. If only one loudspeaker is exhibiting the problem, and you’re confident that it’s not caused by too little power/too much power/excessive equalization, see solutions for Problems 1 and 2.

WIRING DIAGRAM

Note: A Phillips screwdriver and 3mm Allen wrench (hex key) are required to service this product.

EXPLODED VIEW

Screw

3.5x10mm

Black-Plated

C1006X	Control 1X/1Xtreme/One
Crossover Network	(NOT for SALE)
	EVA Gasket	Screw
	Black
		4x8mm
		Black-Plated	Front Baffle
			Black
		C1002X	Screw
		Tweeter
			T4x35mm
			Black-Plated

C1004X

Die-Cast Alum.	Metal Grille, Black
Safety Ring, Black
	C1004X-S
	Metal Grille, Silver

Nut

M5x0.8mm

Zinc-Plated

Nut, M4x0.7Px3t mm Zinc-Plated

C1003X

4-1/2" Woofer

Tweeter

Diffuser

ScrewWasher 4x18mm

Black-PlatedSpring

Control 1X – C1005X

Control 1Xtreme – C10028X

Control One C10028A

Logo Badge

TO SERVICE THE CONTROL 1X/1XTREME/ONEGrille Holding Ring on Grille Black

1.Remove the grille.

2.Remove all (6) 1-3/8" Allen-head screws holding the front baffle to the enclosure.

3.Separate the front baffle w/drivers from the enclosure.

DRIVER REMOVAL – Both woofer and tweeter are bonded to the front baffle with adhesive. Unclip FASTON connectors from both woofer and tweeter.

a)Woofer removal:

Remove all (4) machine screws; rear nut can be held by long-nosed pliers while screws are turned. Apply heat gun (750°) to area around woofer basket until adhesive softens enough to extract the woofer.

b)Tweeter removal:

Remove both (2) Phillips screws.

Apply heat gun (750°) to area around inside of cavity until adhesive softens enough to extract the tweeter. After removal, take care not to lose or misplace the small clear plastic diffuser should it become dislodged.

CAUTION: Too much heat applied in one area too long could warp the front baffle.

DRIVER REPLACEMENT

Both woofer and tweeter must have a bead of adhesive applied to the outer rim only upon reassembly. Silicone sealer or rubber-to-metal cement is recommended.