JBL Control Now™/JBL Control Now AW™
JBL Loudspeaker Troubleshooting/Repair Tips
Most customers prefer to do simple loudspeaker repairs themselves. By following the steps below, a majority of loudspeakers can be returned to their original factory performance with minimum effort. Choose the example that best describes the problem you are experiencing.
Problem 1: No sound or distorted sound from one loudspeaker in a pair (or set)
Connect the dead/distorting loudspeaker to a different amplifier channel (one that had a functioning loudspeaker connected to it). If it functions normally, the problem is not loudspeaker-related. If the loudspeaker still makes no sound or sounds distorted, a wire may have become loose or disconnected, the network (also known as a crossover) may be defective, the drivers (woofer, tweeter, etc.) may be defective or, in very rare cases, all may be defective.
Refer to the wiring diagram and exploded view below. The network is a small circuit board found on the inside of the terminal cup, or mounted to an inside wall of the enclosure. It sends low-frequency sounds to the woofer, high-frequency sounds to the tweeter and, if applicable, mid-frequency sounds to the midrange driver. Make sure all wires are secure and connected. Look for components on the network that look burnt, “bulged,” or abnormal. If everything looks normal, connect the network to the drivers from another matching loudspeaker. MAKE SURE you attach the correct wires to each driver – mid- and low-frequency sounds can damage the tweeter! If there is still no sound or distorted sound, the network is defective. If there is clean undistorted sound, the drivers are defective.
Problem 2: No sound or distorted sound from one or more (but not all) drivers in an enclosure
Remove the problem driver(s) from the enclosure and make sure all wires are secure and connected. If they are, proceed with the following test:
Woofer or midrange driver – Connect the driver’s + and – input terminals directly to the loudspeaker wires from your receiver/amplifier and play some music at a reasonable volume. If the driver now sounds normal (produces a clean, undistorted sound), the network is most likely defective.
Tweeter – Replace the tweeter with a functioning tweeter from another loudspeaker. If the tweeter now functions normally (produces clean, undistorted sound), the original tweeter is defective. If the replacement tweeter also sounds distorted or produces no sound, the network is most likely defective.
Problem 3: Loudspeakers distort, rattle or pop at higher volumes
This is usually NOT a loudspeaker problem. Common causes are too much power (playing the loudspeakers too loud and causing them to distort), an amplifier with not enough power (the amplifier can’t produce the required volume without distorting), excessive equalization (turning the tone controls too far clockwise, and/or engaging the loudness/bass boost button on your receiver) or some combination of the above. If only one loudspeaker is exhibiting the problem, and you’re confident that it’s not caused by too little power/too much power/excessive equalization, see solutions for Problems 1 and 2.
ITEM | PART NO. | DESCRIPTION | QTY. | ITEM | PART NO. | DESCRIPTION | QTY. |
1 | 329-040-05357-0BAE | Front Grille – BK | 1 | 23 | 325-AL-05308-0BAE | Corner Mount Bracket – BK | 1 |
| 329-040-05357-0WAE | Front Grille – AW | 1 | | 325-AL-05308-0WAE | Corner Mount Bracket – AW | 1 |
2 | 243-040-05196-0BAE | Front Baffle – BK | 1 | 24 | 309HIPS-05073-0BAE | Cap, Corner Mount Bracket – BK | 1 |
| 243-040-05196-0WAE | Front Baffle – AW | 1 | | 309-ABS-05073-0WAE | Cap, Corner Mount Bracket – AW | 1 |
3 | 352-AM05025D1307-E | Screw, Baffle, #T5*25.4 – BK | 8 | 25 | 371-000-05214-E | Screw, #10-32 x 2" | 2 |
| 352-AM05025D1329-E | Screw, Baffle, #T5*25.4 – AW | 8 | | | Corner Mount Bracket – BK | |
4 | 32PR30CZG-HW01-E | Woofer, 4" | 2 | | 371-000-05216-E | Screw, #10-32 x 2" | 2 |
5 | 352-CM04012D170-E | Screw, #T4*12, Woofer | 8 | | | Corner Mount Bracket – AW | |
6 | 333-EVA-05739-0BAE | Gasket, Baffle | 1 | 26 | 325-FE-05311-0BAE | Stand Mount Bracket – BK | 1 |
7 | 300-0047-001 | Tweeter, 3/4" | 1 | | 325-FE-05311-0WAE | Stand Mount Bracket – AW | 1 |
8 | 325-FE-00418-E | Strap, Tweeter | 1 | 27 | 371-000-05211-E | Screw, #8-32 x 0.5" (2 pcs) Stand Mount | |
9 | 352-AM03008D035-E | Screw, #T3*8, Tweeter | 2 | | | Bracket - BK 1/4 x 20 x 0.9" (1 pc) | 1 |
10 | 013-7600-05515-E | Crossover Network | 1 | | 371-000-05212-E | Screw, #8-32 x 0.5" (2 pcs) Stand Mount | |
11 | Not for Sale | Enclosure | 2 | | | Bracket - AW 1/4 x 20 x 0.9" (1 pc.) | 1 |
12 | Not for Sale | Port Tube | 2 | 28 | 174-932317135-E | Multi-Wiring Adapter - BK | 1 |
13 | Not for Sale | Screw, Enclosure | 12 | | 174-932317135UV-E | Multi-Wiring Adapter - AW | 1 |
14 | Not for Sale | Lock Plate | 2 | 29 | 398-PC-05326-0BAE | Bracket Cover - BK | 2 |
15 | Not for Sale | Silicon End Cap | 2 | | 398-PC-05326-0WAE | Bracket Cover - AW | 2 |
16 | Not for Sale | Terminal Cap | 1 | 30 | 350-EM04012D024-E | Screw, #T4*12, Network | 4 |
17 | Not for Sale | Screw, Terminal Cap | 2 | 31 | 371-000-05236-E | Screw, #10-32 x 0.5" (2 pcs) | 1 |
18 | 325-AL-05309-0BAE | Mounting Bracket – BK | 1 | | | Corner Mount Bracket - BK | |
| 325-AL-05309-0WAE | Mounting Bracket – AW | 1 | | 371-000-05237-E | Screw, #10-32 x 0.5" (2 pcs) | 1 |
19 | 351-AC01016A1339-E | Screw, #10-24, Mounting Bracket – BK | 4 | | | Corner Mount Bracket - AW | |
| 351-AM01016A1381-E | Screw, #10-24, Mounting Bracket – AW | 4 | 32 | 405-000-05181-E | Warranty Card | 1 |
20 | 174-232163127-E | Input Terminal – BK | 1 | 33 | Visit www.jbl.com | Owner’s Manual | 1 |
| 174-232163127UV-E | Input Terminal – AW | 1 | 34 | 431-000-06675-E | Polyfoam, Top | 1 |
21 | Not for Sale | Damping | 1 | 35 | 431-000-06676-E | Polyfoam, Bottom | 1 |
22 | Not for Sale | Screw, Port Tube | 2 | 36 | 402-000-06043-E | Outer Carton - BK | 1 |
| | | | | 402-000-06053-E | Outer Carton - AW | 1 |
SERVICE NOTES
1)To remove the metal grille, peel the rubbery edge away from one of the ends of the grille, exposing the grille edge.
2)Using a sharp awl or pick, work along the six notched areas of the cabinet edge to lift the grille away, until the grille becomes detached, graduating to a small flat-blade screwdriver for more leverage. Be careful not to mar or deform the exposed areas of the grille mesh.
3)Once you are able to get your fingers under the edge of the grille, pull up to completely remove it from the channel in the cabinet, and opposite end.
4)Remove all eight screws holding the front baffle to the cabinet; pull on one of the outer edges to remove the front baffle.
