Lennox Hearth CST-38 Refractories, Maintenance Guidelines, Before Each Use, Twice A Year Check-Up

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1.Remove the two (2) screws from one of the side lintel extension, leaving the lintel extension on the other side attached to the lintel frame. Only lower the end of the lintel extension closest to the closed end (refractory wall) of the CPF-

38.Aligning the desired holes in the lintel extension with the holes in the lintel frame and reattach using one (1) of the screws previously removed.

2.Remove the two (2) screws from the lintel extension on the other side of the fireplace. Lower the whole lintel extension to the desired holes and reattach using the screws just re- moved.

3.On the lintel extension first lowered, realign the holes as necessary then insert and tighten the remaining screw.

REFRACTORIES

All fireboxes contain a furnace refractory floor. Some models also have refractory sides and backs. These refractories are reinforced with steel, but can be broken by improper use. Dropping logs on the bottom refractory and building fires directly against the refractories can cause premature burnout of these compo- nents. It may easily be repaired or replaced at costs far below repair and maintenance for masonry fireplaces.

Proper care and “burn-in” of the firebox will prolong the period of enjoyment without exten- sive maintenance. For the first few uses, build small fires – not roaring infernos. The materials used in the refractories contain and absorb moisture. It is important to “cure” the refracto- ries by building only modest fires.

Under normal usage, it is expected that hairline cracks will appear in the refractory surface. These hairline cracks do not affect the safe operation of the fireplace.

Refractories should be replaced when:

1.The crack opens more than 1/4" (19 mm).

2.Pitting in the surface is extensive and pits become deeper than 3/16" (4.76 mm).

3.Any piece of refractory larger than 2" (51 mm) in radius and 3/16" deep becomes dislodged.

If your refractory has a crack less than 1/4" (19 mm) in width, a simple Refractory Patch Kit, Model RPK, can easily be used to fill the crack and repair the refractory.

If conditions 1, 2 or 3 occur, the refractory should be replaced. For minor defects, repair as noted above.

MAINTENANCE GUIDELINES

Your fireplace is designed to operate trouble- free with minimum maintenance. However, like any fine appliance, it deserves and requires some housekeeping attention.

Your fireplace will perform better – and cer- tainly look more attractive to family and friends

–if it is cleaned before each use. Before the first seasonal use in Autumn and after the last fire in Spring, it is important to inspect the fireplace system carefully. We recommend at least two complete fireplace inspections a year.

Before Each Use

1.Clean the firebox of excessive ashes. Some owners prefer to leave a small layer to insulate the cold refractory below the grate which helps fire starting.

If your particular model fireplace has a factory supplied grate attached, it is permissible to remove the grate for cleaning; however, the grate must be re-attached to the fireplace be- fore the next burn.

2.Keep the fireplace screens clean so combus- tion air flows freely.

3.Spot check the brick-like refractory for small cracks. Heat from the fire expands it slightly. When it cools, it contracts.

Twice A Year Check-Up

Normally, twice a year, you should inspect your fireplace following this list:

1.Inspect the opening in your chimney top and remove any debris that could clog it. The cap is usually held in place by four (4) screws, which remove easily for checking or cleaning the full length of the flue from above. Remove the chimney top while wearing gloves to guard against any sharp metal edges.

2.Inspect the entire flue from the top down for obstructions such as birds nests, leaves, etc. This may be done by using a flexible handled chimney cleaning brush. If the chimney con- tains offset/return elbows; a soft brush cleaning from the top down to any elbow and then from the firebox up to the offset/return section is the proper method. The beam from a powerful flashlight will help in this inspection.

NOTE: DIAGRAMS & ILLUSTRATIONS NOT TO SCALE

3.Look up from inside the fireplace (damper open) to see any obstructions in the lower flue area. If present, shut the damper and glass doors (if installed) to seal the firebox and contain any soot that might fall. If your do not have glass doors installed, a damp sheet covering the fire- place opening and sealed with masking tape will do. Then clean the flue from the top down (if an offset system, clean per Step 2) using a proper size chimney brush with flexible pole sections. Don’t open the doors or remove the sheet until all soot has settled. Vacuum, don’t sweep.

4.Check the metal flashing and seals around your chimney. Seal any cracks or loose nailhead openings to prevent roof leaks.

5.Clean the firebox thoroughly by using a soft brush or equivalent.

WARNING: CONTINUED OVER FIRING CAN PERMANENTLY DAMAGE YOUR FIREPLACE SYSTEM. SOME EXAMPLES OF OVERFIRING ARE:

•BURNING QUANTITIES OF SCRAP LUMBER, PINE BRANCHES, PAPER OR CARDBOARD BOXES WHICH EXCEED THE VOLUME OF THE NORMAL LOG FIRE.

•BURNING TRASH, CHEMICALS OR CHEMICALLY TREATED COMBUS- TIBLES.

Creosote Formation and Removal

When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with ex- pelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. Creosote makes an extremely hot fire when ignited.

The chimney should be inspected at least twice yearly during the heating season to determine if a creosote build-up has occurred.

If creosote has accumulated, it should be re- moved to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.

If creosote build-up is found, do not use chemical chimney cleaners that are poured on a hot fire. The manufacturer considers them dangerous and they generally only work on the flue section nearest the fire, leaving the rest of the flue unaffected. It is best to take the time to clean the flue as previously described or have the chimney professionally cleaned by a quali- fied chimney sweep.