REFRACTORIES

All fireboxes contain a furnace refractory floor, sides and back. These refractories are reinforced with steel, but can be broken by improper use. Dropping logs on the bottom refractory and building fires directly against the refractories can cause premature burnout of these components. It may easily be repaired or replaced at costs far below repair and maintenance for masonry fireplaces.

Proper care and “burn-in” of the firebox will prolong the period of enjoyment without extensive maintenance. For the first few uses, build small fires – not roaring infernos. The materials used in the refractories contain and absorb moisture. It is important to “cure” the refractories by building only modest fires. Under normal usage, it is expected that hairline cracks will appear in the refractory surface. These hairline cracks do not affect the safe operation of the fireplace.

MAINTENANCE GUIDELINES

Your fireplace is designed to operate trouble- free with minimum maintenance. However, like any fine appliance, it deserves and requires some housekeeping attention.

Your fireplace will perform better – and certainly look more attractive to family and friends

–if it is cleaned before each use. Before the first seasonal use in Autumn and after the last fire in Spring, it is important to inspect the fireplace system carefully. We recommend at least two complete fireplace inspections a year.

Before Each Use

1.Clean the firebox of excessive ashes. Some owners prefer to leave a small layer to insulate the cold refractory below the grate which helps fire starting.

This fireplace has a factory supplied grate at- tached, it is permissible to remove the grate for cleaning; however, the grate must be re-attached to the fireplace before the next burn.

2.Keep the fireplace screens clean so combus- tion air flows freely.

3.Spot check the brick-like refractory for small cracks. Heat from the fire expands it slightly. When it cools, it contracts.

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Refractories should be replaced when:

1.The crack opens more than ¹⁄₄" (19 mm).

2.Pitting in the surface is extensive and pits become deeper than ³⁄₁₆" (4.76 mm).

3.Any piece of refractory larger than 2" (51 mm) in radius and ³⁄₁₆" deep becomes dis- lodged.

If conditions 1, 2 or 3 occur, the refractory should be replaced.

TWICE A YEAR CHECK-UP

Normally, twice a year, you should inspect your fireplace following this list:

1.Inspect the opening in your chimney top and remove any debris that could clog it. The cap is usually held in place by four (4) screws, which remove easily for checking or cleaning the full length of the flue from above. Remove the chimney top while wearing gloves to guard against any sharp metal edges.

2.Inspect the entire flue from the top down for obstructions such as birds nests, leaves, etc. This may be done by using a flexible handled chimney cleaning brush. If the chimney con- tains offset/return elbows; a soft brush cleaning from the top down to any elbow and then from the firebox up to the offset/return section is the proper method. The beam from a powerful flashlight will help in this inspection.

3.Look up from inside the fireplace (damper open) to see any obstructions in the lower flue area. If present, shut the damper and glass doors (if installed) to seal the firebox and con- tain any soot that might fall.

If your do not have glass doors installed, a damp sheet covering the fireplace opening and sealed with masking tape will do. Then clean the flue from the top down (if an offset system, clean per Step 2) using a proper size chimney brush with flexible pole sections. Don’t open the doors or remove the sheet until all soot has settled. Vacuum, don’t sweep.

4.Check the metal flashing and seals around your chimney. Seal any cracks or loose nail- head openings to prevent roof leaks.

5.Clean the firebox thoroughly by using a soft brush or equivalent.

WARNING: CONTINUED OVERFIRING CAN PERMANENTLY DAMAGE YOUR FIREPLACE SYSTEM. SOME EXAMPLES OF OVERFIRING ARE:

•BURNING QUANTITIES OF SCRAP LUMBER, PINE BRANCHES, PAPER OR CARDBOARD BOXES WHICH EXCEED THE VOLUME OF THE NORMAL LOG FIRE.

•USE OF ARTIFICIAL WAX BASE LOGS, TRASH OR OTHER CHEMICALS OR CHEMICALLY TREATED COMBUS- TIBLES.

CREOSOTE FORMATION AND REMOVAL

When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lin- ing. When ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.

The chimney should be inspected at least twice yearly during the heating season to determine if a creosote build-up has occurred.

If creosote has accumulated, it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.

If creosote build-up is found, do not use chemical chimney cleaners that are poured on a hot fire. The chemical cleaners can be dangerous and generally only work on the flue section nearest the fire, leaving the rest of the flue unaffected. It is best to take the time to clean the flue as previously described or have the chimney professionally cleaned by a qualified chimney sweep.

TROUBLESHOOTINGNo Smoking Allowed

Your new fireplace is designed not to smoke if properly installed and operated per our in- structions. If you do experience a problem, here are several things to check:

1.Remember – always check to ensure your flue damper is in the open position before lighting a fire!