Installation of Brackets, Frames and Grilles in Existing Walls
Installation of
Brackets, Frames
and Grilles in
Existing Walls
IMPORTANT: Before you cut into any wall, review the sections on running wire and speaker placement.
1.Drill a 1/8” pilot hole just barely through the wallboard or dry wall (1/2” to 5/8” deep in most homes) about an inch below the center of your proposed speaker location (an inch to the side if you are mounting the speaker horizon- tally). BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR STRUCTURE. IF YOU FEEL ANY EXTRA RESISTANCE AS YOU ARE DRILLING, STOP. Cut a piece of coat hanger equal to the width of the bracket. Bend the wire in half creating a right angle. Poke the “L- shaped” wire into the pilot hole and turn
Figure 12
Figure 11
it in a complete circle. If it turns freely, repeat the procedure from a hole about an inch above the center of your proposed speaker location (See Figure 11).
If the wire’s movement is obstructed by a pipe or cable, fill the hole (s) with spack- le or other patching compound and try another location.
2.When determining the final location of the cutout keep in mind that the frame and bracket will extend beyond the cutout. Make sure that you do not place the edge of the cutout directly next to a stud. Locate the studs using a stud sensor or hand- knocking. Once you have determined the correct position for the cutout, hold the supplied template up to the wall surface. Level the template in either the horizontal or the vertical position and mark the wall
with a pencil. Drill the four corners with a 1/4” drill bit.
3.If you are cutting a painted or wall papered drywall use a sheetrock or keyhole saw. Cut the hole with the saw at a 45 degree angle.
That way, the drywall section can be replaced cleanly if there is an unseen obstruction behind the wall. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO SAW THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR STRUCTURE. IF YOU FEEL ANY EXTRA RESISTANCE AS YOU ARE CUTTING, STOP.
4.If you are cutting into lath and plaster walls, use masking tape to outline your penciled marks, drill the four corners with a 1/4” bit and use a razor to score the plaster down to the lath beneath. Then use a chisel to remove all of the plaster within the taped outline. Finally, insert a metal cutting blade into a sabre saw and very slowly and carefully saw the lath. Sawing the lath can easily vibrate plaster off the wall. If you have the patience, use a pair of tin snips to slowly nip away at the lath instead. There is no risk with this method, it is just time consuming.
5.Fill the wall cavity with insulation at this point. Remember to use equal amounts of insulation for each speaker.
6.Slip the mounting bracket through the hole and pull it toward you so that its front edge slides into the hole and stops in place.
7.Attach the frame to the bracket by screwing the frame to the bracket using the supplied screws. Do not overtighten the screws, this will distort the frame and the grilles will not fit (this is not perma- nent, just loosen the screws and the grille will pop in). The screws should pull the frame and bracket together (sandwiching the drywall) so that the frame is abso- lutely flush with the wall surface. There should be no gaps between the wall and the frame (See Figure 12).
Installation of the Speaker, Sensor and Grille in New or Existing Construction
Installing a Niles MS110 MicroSensor
There is a 1/2” round molded “IR Sensor Knockout” on the face of the speaker baf- fle. To prevent damage to the crossover network you must remove the knock- out from the rear of the speaker. Do not attempt to remove the knockout with the speaker face up. Lay the speaker face down on a clean carpet or rug. Put the tip of a screwdriver into the center of the round “knockout” and sharply tap the screwdriver handle as necessary. Install the MS110 using its mounting hex nut and washer so that it is tightly secured to the speaker. Connect all wires and con- tinue your installation.
Installation of the Speaker, Sensor and Grille in New or Existing Construction
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