valuable to further the process mentally before the physical begins. Post-construction, as- built drawings are valuable to assure performance and aid modification. However; no drawings will be entirely complete or consistent with the construction. Proceed with an open and responsive mind. Prepare to be surprised, challenged, and rewarded—to solve the many small riddles along the path to completion.
III. INSTALLATION
A. New Construction
The PSB in-walls covered in this manual use a particularly effective mounting technique with toggle style mounting clamps. They are so named because the mounting clamp toggles out from a rest position prior to tightening down. As shipped, this mounting clamp parks on a flat on its mounting tower, thus staying out of the way for easy insertion of the system into the wall cutout. When a screwdriver is applied to the mounting screws it first turns the clamp 90 degrees, removing it from its resting place, and then brings the clamp down a track in the tower. With further tightening it finally clamps the wall firmly. This clamping style gives firm clamping for freedom from rattles, and great convenience of installation. The round and square models (CW160R and CW160S) have 4 each.
A template is provided for marking the speaker cutout. It has a series of slots for tracing the cutout and also an outline of the system to confirm that the flange won't interfere with any wall features.
For the new construction application, we offer Back Box and Pre-construction Bracket solutions. The Back Box (BBX-88) defines the optimal enclosure volume for our CustomSound Series products and is mounted between two studs behind drywall. The result is optimal low frequency response and an improvement in adjacent room isolation. The Pre-construction Brackets simplify installation in new construction application and can be used with or without the Back Box. The round model is the CK-6R an dthe square version is the CK-6S. Installation instructions are provided with both products.
At each intended speaker location measure and mark with a pencil the intended center of the speaker. Near the intended center make a small initial exploratory hole with an awl or (worn) screwdriver and hammer, a wallboard cutout saw, or a drill. If the awl, screwdriver or saw hits "solid" after the wallboard or plaster is pierced or if the drill produces sawdust after the initial wallboard/plaster dust, you have probably hit a wooden stud—which will obstruct that location. If drilling becomes harder after piercing the wallboard or plaster, remember it could be plumbing, mechanical, or electrical material. If you feel unusual resistance or sense an obstruction, stop. Consider the situation and carefully make another small exploratory hole about 1 1/2" to the side where you would prefer the speaker location to move.
When your small exploratory hole avoids obvious obstruction, enlarge that hole slightly with the screwdriver and hammer (or wallboard saw) until you can extend a short probe wire/fish-tape through the hole and determine the location of the stud on each side and other obstructions. Adjust your layout if necessary and then enlarge the hole slightly so that you can see into the wall cavity (aided by a flashlight) and confirm there are no further obstructions.
Continue this process of initial layout, exploratory holes, determining hole, and confirming hole at each intended location in a related group before proceeding with full cutouts. You can then modify the initial layout as required to avoid the inevitable discovered conflicts and maintain a desired layout for acoustical performance and visual aesthetics—while avoiding and minimizing any excess cutting and patching.
When final speaker locations are determined, use the template by placing it on the wall at the intended system location. Several thumbtacks can hold it in position. (Put the thumbtacks within the outline of the system and their holes won't show later.) Use a pencil or fine tipped pen to trace around the slots of the template. Bias the pencil or pen towards the inside of the slots to achieve the proper dimensions. A cutout of the dimensions determined by the template will include a little play to allow for cutting variation.
Now cut out the full rough-opening being careful to avoid over-cutting, breaking edges of the opening, or damaging surrounding paint or wallpaper finishes. A wallboard handsaw, preferably with replaceable blades, is the normal tool. The Finish Frames are about 3/4" wide around the Grilles on the finish surface and extend about 5/8” beyond the rough opening cutout, which should be quite adequate cover with reasonable care in layout and cutout.
Check that openings are large enough and plumb by test fitting the speaker into the opening. A wallboard rasp block/plane is very useful to slightly expand and square up openings. A small level on or against the Frame easily confirms level and plumb.
Place the system into the wall cutout. If there is extra slack in the cutout then level and position the system before tightening the screws or after slightly tightening one or two of the screws. Use a number 2 Philips head screwdriver or any style and size that properly fits the screw head. Note: using bits that are too small will lead to damaging the screw head and may make it very difficult to sufficiently tighten or untighten the mounting screws.
Initial tightening may take considerable force as the screw forms a thread through the mounting leg. This will loosen as the screw continues to turn. Set driver torque with just enough force to start the screw turning. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. The system has been well designed to prevent stripping or damage from over tightening but PSB cannot be responsible for damage due to unreasonable force being used when mounting the system.
Should it ever be necessary to remove the system from the wall, then unscrew each leg (counter clockwise) in turn. As you unscrew the screw head will lie flat in the frame until near the end of its travel, where the screw starts to rise. STOP AT THAT POINT. Further turning will remove the screw from the assembly and will make it more difficult to remove the system. The dog leg clamps are held at the top of the mounting tower and should not fall off or down into the wall cavity, unless excessive force and continued counter- clockwise turning are used.
When each mounting screw is back out as described above you should be able to remove the system. Because the clamps are not parked in the starting position as when the system was first mounted, some of them may interfere with the system's removal. Usually some wiggling can jostle each clamp into a position where it isn't interfering. Using a manual screwdriver to apply slight counterclockwise pressure should also turn a clamp out of the way. (Start with the screws on one end of the system and turn each slightly. Angle the system out a little more as each clamp moves out of the way.)
B. Enclosure Volume and Insulation
CustomSound speakers are designed for optimum performance in standard wall cavities. A normal studded wall cavity is about 3 1/2" x 14 1/2" x 93" with a volume of about 2.7 cubic feet (75 liters). Changes in cavity volume most affect bass performance—response and maximum output. Slightly wider or narrower stud spacing and the resulting cavity volume will not significantly affect performance. Significant increases in cavity depth and the resulting volume—50% more with 2" x 6" wall studs or more than twice as much with floor joists—contribute to improved, more easily attainable bass performance. Volumes
