17. Install R10, 2K ohm resistor,
18. Install R5, 10K ohm resistor
19. Install C3, .01 uF ceramic disc capacitor [marked 103] next to R5.
20. Install R4, 47K ohm resistor
21. Install R1, 100K ohm resistor
22. Install C2. .01 uF ceramic disc capacitor, under Q1.
23. Install D1, 1N4148 silicon diode, under C2. Be sure the band on the diode lines up with the band on the board drawing.
24. Install R7, 470K ohm resistor
25. Install JMP1, under R7, using a little piece of cutoff component lead.
26. Install R6, 1K ohm
SETUP AND TESTING
Testing out the EDF1 is really easy. Just solder an 8 ohm speaker into the holes for the speaker which are located above the BAT1 pads. There’s no silkscreen for these pads so you’ll need to look at the parts layout diagram to determine the “+” and
Solder in the 9V battery snap into the BAT1 pads. Now adjust R8 for vol- ume and R2 for the decay time of the drip sound. Play with these two until you get the most obnoxious sound possible. You can also twiddle with the value of R1. If you want to run your EDF1 at lower voltages, you can re- duce R1 to something like 220K. This will lengthen the sound and provide a longer “drip”.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
If your kit doesn’t work it’s most likely a transistor put it wrong, or a polarized component in backwards. Just make sure the transistor is lined up correctly and the electrolytic caps are in the right way. If all this checks out, make sure the right resistors are in the right places. Check your solder joints to be sure they’re solid and look for solder splashes, solder bridges, cold solder joints or unsoldered components.
EDF1• 8
