Water Heaters
Today’s water heaters have more features and options than ever, which translates into more choices for homeowners.
There are two types of water heating systems: the most common is a conven- tional tank system, which stores and heats water in a tank until needed; and a contin- uous or tankless water heating system,
combined measurement of how much water is stored in the water heater and how quickly the water heater can heat cold water to the desired temperature. Use this rating to compare hot water delivery capa- bilities of similar models and determine the best unit for your household. For example, a Maytag
naturallybetter The Air Inside Your Home
Learn how desiccants can improve air quality and help your family breathe easier. By Amy E. Lemen
which has a a higher efficiency rating than any other conventional residential water heating system. “Tankless is about 25 to 28 percent more efficient, and people love them because you never run out of hot water,” says Butch Aikens, resource man- ager for Rheem, which makes tank and tankless models. “They cost more, but for most people, it’s about the features and benefits they get with it.”
When selecting a water heater, con- sider the first hour rating (FHR) to properly size a storage water heater or select the model of a tankless unit. The FHR is the amount of hot water the water heater can supply in the first hour of operation. It’s a
gallons at 5500 watts. A comparable Maytag gas water heater has an FHR of 73 gallons for a power vent model and 81 gallons for a standard model.
Look for the EnergyGuide Label, which lists the first hour rating in the top left cor- ner as “Capacity.” Finally, think about how long it will take
for the water heater to re- cover and be ready for the next shower should it run out of hot water.
ou’re home after a long day. Time to relax and Ybreathe a little easier. Or not. Truth be told, the air in- side your home is probably worse than it is outside, smog and allergens included. The Environmental Pro- tection Agency (EPA) has estimated that indoor air is
up to 10 times worse than the air we breathe outside. Given those kinds of statistics, homeowners nationwide are more interested than ever in breathing easier. The good news is that more man- ufacturers and building suppliers are designing products that can help us all take a deep, healthy breath.
Take desiccants, for example. That’s what’s in those little pack- ets found in everything from pill bottles to pillowcases — essen- tially, minerals like silica gel, calcium sulfate and other substances that act as natural dehumidifiers, removing moisture from the air, pills or even pillowcases. Ever seen rice inside salt shakers at restaurants? Rice is a
end up feeling comfortable at higher temperatures, and that can save money on energy bills,” says Janke.
Contact your local natural gas company or a heating and air conditioning contractor to discuss the installation of a desiccant unit in your home.
Top Ways
to Improve
Indoor
Air Quality
Whether you decide to invest in a desiccant system now or later (prices range from $4,000 to $5,000, installed), take these steps now for healthier air in your home.
1. Vent bathrooms, kitchens, toilets and laundry rooms directly |
outdoors, and use |
Backup Generators
Given the volatile weather of the past five years, it’s not surprising that the sale of backup power generators to homeowners has in- creased. In fact, a 2006 study found that half of those who lived in
Add to that the power loss from downed power lines during snowstorms, ice storms and tornados, and you’re looking at a
“A desiccant unit can take a house’s relative humidity down to 45 to 50 percent, helping homeowners avoid a whole host of pathogens,” says Scott Janke of Novelaire, the only manufacturer of residential
ASHRE, a nationally recognized engineering association, states that the optimum humidity level for controlling, bacteria, viruses and dust mites is between 40 and 60 percent. Living in a house with just 50 percent relative humidity means living in a home where health and allergy issues related to mold and dust mites are dramatically decreased. That’s because mold can’t grow in homes with 50 percent humidity, and dust mites can’t repro- duce (it’s their waste that triggers allergy problems). “People tend to crank up the air conditioner when it’s hot and sticky in the house,” Janke says. “You don’t have to do that with a desiccant system because it controls the humidity.”
If you live in a high humidity area, then you understand and probably detest that sticky, clammy feeling. High humidity causes us to feel hotter, so we lower the temperature on our air condi- tioner and then we get cold — so we start the
2. | Avoid locating furnaces, air conditioners and ductwork in |
| garages or other spaces where they could draw contami- |
| nants into the house. |
3. | Properly vent fireplaces, wood stoves and other hearth |
| products, and use tight doors and outdoor air intakes |
| wherever possible. |
4. | Vent clothes dryers and central vacuum cleaners |
| directly outdoors. |
5. | Store toxic or volatile compounds, such as paints, solvents, |
| cleaners and pesticides, outside livable spaces. |
6. | Minimize or avoid unvented combustion sources such |
| as indoor barbecues. |
7. | Open windows when you’re using strong chemical |
| products, such as home cleaning products and paint. |
8. | Use |
| heaters and furnaces. If you’re using |
| tions, be sure they’ve been tested for proper venting and, |
| if possible, that they’re located outside living spaces. |
9. | Invest in a good particle filter or air cleaner in your air |
| handling system to keep dirt out of the air and off your |
| ductwork and heating and cooling components. |
10. | Use |
| level of outdoor air circulate throughout the home. |
Source: American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and
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