It’s a good idea to bench test your system before mounting the components. If you have a 
1 Z-voltpower source, you can connect and test all the components outside the car. Or you can connect them inside the car before screwing them down. Either way, connect the components exactly as you intend to in the final installation; make all power connections last; test the system: then disconnect all power until the final installation is complete.
WIRING
Determine how your car’s wiring is laid out, and run your wires in the same loca- tions when possible. Many passageways, wire-hooks, and strain relief devices already exist in your car; take advantage of them. Keep all wiring inside the car. Good standard audio practice suggests keeping signal wires short and away from power lines. Wires can be run under carpet. If you drill a new passage - hole through metal, make sure no burrs remain to scrape the wire; use grommets as needed. All wires should be hidden: an exposed wire can inadvertently be pulled, causing disconnection or shorting. Wires should never be under tension or subject to moisture. Use cable ties to bundle excess wire.
POWER WIRES
NOTE: Your amplifier can only be operated from a 12-VOLT NEGATIVE GROUND electrical system. If your car was produced before 1970 or if you have any doubts, make sure of the type of electrical system you have before making any connections.
For power wiring, use 1 O-gauge wire or larger. Smaller gauge numbers denote larger wire. The PLUS 12 Vterminal (tyl in the wiring diagram) should be con- nected directly to the positive terminal of your car battery terminal. An in-line fuse should be placed as close as possible to the battery terminal. If you have more than one amplifier, each amplifier should be separately fused. Use the following fuse values:
D-200 | .._ | 30-ampere |
D-l 00 | . . . . . . . | ..20_ampere |
Class-A-50 . . | . . . . ... | 20-ampere |
Class-A-40 . . | . . . . . . | .15-ampere |
D-60 | . . . . . . . | . . 15ampere |
The GROUND terminal (#2) should be connected directly to the automobile chassis with lo-gauge wire or larger. Make this wire as short as possible to prevent noise in the system. A nearby bolt can serve as a ground terminal.
Make sure that the wire contacts bare metal, not coated metal or paint.
INPUTCONNECTIONS
Inputs to the amplifier attach by means of standard RCA-type jacks. The Sound- stream amplifiers achieve a level of performance at which cable and connector quality is significant: the jacks on your amplifier are gold plated, and we recom- mend premium gold-plated plugs and high-quality shielded cable.
Connect your left channel signal source to the INPUT LEFTjack (#8), and your right-channel signal source to the INPUTRlGHTjack (#9).
In most cases, the signal source will be the preamp output jacks of a tuner/deck.
Some tuner/decks use preamp output connectors other than RCA jacks, in which case you will need a specral cabie or adaptor atiailable from your dealer.
if your tuner/deck has speaker outputs and no preamp outputs, you can use the speaker outputs. Wire RCA-type plugs to the ends of your tuner/deck’s output wires, making sure that you maintain consistent polarity in all channels.
If you have an equalizer or low-level crossover network(s) for bi- or tri-amping, these components will be inserted between your tuner:deck and your ampiifier(s}. Refer to the manuals for these components for further details.
OUTPUT CONNECTIONS
Use high-quality loudspeaker cable for best results; use l&gauge cable as a mmimum size. Connect your left channel loudspeaker(s) to the
LEk-TSPEAKER+and LEFTSPEAKER- terminals j#4 and #5); connect your right channel loudspeaker(sj to the RIGHTSPEAKER+ and RIGHTSPEAKER- terminals (#7 and $6).
The terminals on jour loudspeakers are marked for polarity, and loudspeaker wire is coded by color or by markings on the jacket. Be sure to connect the left and right channels with the same polarity. Loudspeaker manufacturers are not consistent in their polarity markings, so if you have icudspeakers of different types connected to the same amplifier terminal, verify correct polarity by ear. The correct polarity produces the most bass; incorrect polarity produces less bass and a strangely dislocated sound image on mono material.
lfyou have more than one amplifier: for each amplifier and its loudspeakers, the left and right channels must always be wired with the same polarity. But from one amplifier to the next, correct polarity may be the same, or it may be re- versed. This is because of differences in amplifier design, the nature of cross- over filters, and other factors. Again, experiment and verify the correct polarity by ear.
REMOTE POWER-ON CONNECTION
If your tuner/deck has a remote power-on control wire or terminal, connect it to the REMOTEterminal (#3) on your amplifier. This is a control line, not a power line, so small wire (18-20 gauge) is acceptable.
If your tuner/deck has no remote power-on control lapeled as such, but has a power antenna control, it may be possible to wire the power antenna control to the REMOTE terminal.
If your tuner/deck has neither a remote power-on control wire nor a usable power antenna control, it will be necessary either to connect the REMOTE terminal to a +12-volt source which is switched by the ignition key, or to connect the REMOTE terminal to a constant +I 2-volt source !hrough an on-off switch you install in a location accessible to the driver.
Do not connect the REMOTE terminal directly to a constant +12-volt line without a switch; this would keep the amplifier on at all times and drain your battery when the motor is off.
