FOR HVAC INSTALLER AND HOMEOWNER
only the impeller fan should run. Disconnect the wires.
3.Connect the yellow and blue pigtails from the main unit together; the compressor and impeller fan should run.
4.If these tests work, the main unit is working properly. You should check the control panel and field control wiring for problems next.
5.Remove the control panel from the mounting box and detach it from the field installed control wiring. Connect the blue, yellow, and green wires from the control panel directly to the corresponding colored pigtails on the main unit. Leave the violet, white and red wires disconnected!
6.Turn on the fan switch; the impeller fan should run. Turn off the fan switch.
7.Turn on the humidity control; the compressor and impeller fan should run.
8.If these tests work, the problem is most likely in the field control wiring.
6.3 Refrigerant Charging
If the refrigerant charge is lost due to service or a leak, a new charge must be accurately weighed in. If any of the old charge is left in the system, it must be recovered before weighing in the new charge. Refer to the unit nameplate for the correct charge weight and refrigerant type.
6.4 Impeller Fan Replacement
The motorized impeller fan is a unitary assembly consisting of the motor and impeller fan. If defective, the complete assembly must be replaced.
1.Unplug the power cord
2.Remove the cabinet access panel
3.Disconnect the impeller's blue, black, brown leads, which are attached to the capacitors as well as the green/yellow ground lead.
4.Remove the impeller access plate, which is the
5.Remove the two cable clamps securing the impeller cord to the access plate.
6.Remove the defective impeller from the access plate
7.Reassemble the new impeller fan by reversing the above procedure. Note: Make sure that the new impeller cord is secured tightly to the impeller access plate utilizing the two cable clamps given with the unit. Make sure to reconnect all leads in their correct positions.
6.5 Compressor/Capacitor Replacement
This compressor is equipped with a two terminal external overload and a run capacitor, but no start capacitor or relay.
6.6 Replacing a Compressor, Nonburn Out
Remove the refrigerant from the system. Replace the compressor and liquid line filter/drier. Charge the system to 50 PSIG and check for leaks. Remove the charge and weigh in the refrigerant quantity listed on the nameplate. Operate the system to verify performance.
6.7 Electric Ventilation Damper
The electric ventilation damper is controlled by the ventilation timer. The damper will open when the ventilation timer is activated to allow fresh air into the structure through the 6" diameter fresh air inlet duct. The electric ventilation damper will remain closed when the ventilation timer is not activated to prevent
The damper opens in one direction only. The damper rotates very slowly, allow sufficient time for the damper to cycle. The damper will take approximately 1 minute to cycle from closed to open or from open to closed.
If the electric ventilation damper fails to operate:
1.Check that the wiring is correct and that voltage is present at the damper motor.
2.Check for any obstruction inside the damper. If the electric ventilation damper fails to operate after performing these checks, it must be replaced.
6.8 Condensate Pump Kit
An optional condensate pump kit is available from the factory for use with the
location when the water level in the pump's reservoir rises to close the float switch. The pump also contains a safety float switch. The white leads from this switch extend from beneath the pump cover. This switch should be installed in series with the field
wire that connects the blue (#5) lead from the
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