BUTTONHOLES
Various fabrics require various methods of sewing buttonholes. Four different methods are given below, with suggested uses. If you are in doubt as to which method is best for your fabric, test the methods in question and choose the best according to the finished appearance.
PREPARATION
For the best results, a good quality merceriz ed cotton thread should be used. Polyester threads often result in puckered or heavy unattractive buttonholes. The finer your fabric is, the finer your cotton thread should be. An interfacing should be used under the buttonholes to give body, to strengthen, and to help them withstand wear. To establish the correct length of the buttonhole, add the diameter of the button (A), plus the thick ness of the button (B), plus 1/8 inch for the bartacks. The length may be marked on the garment with a basting stitch, tailors chalk, or transparent tape, as shown. Another way to make sure that all buttonholes will be the same size is to cut a piece of cardboard as wide as the buttonhole foot and long enough to make the distance between the toe of the white slide and the cardboard the size buttonhole needed. This method works for buttonholes up to
Vertical buttonholes are placed so that the cutting space of the buttonhole is directly on the center line. Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of the garment fabric before making any buttonholes on your gar ment. On your test sample, duplicate the thickness found in the garment and be sure to include the interfacing. The test sample should help determine the length needed for the button to pass through easily, and the stitch length for the particular fabric. As with the satin stitch, the stitches should be close together, but not so close that they pile up. Be sure to use the buttonhole foot.
| B |
| U |
| T |
| T |
| 0 |
| N |
| H |
IB | 0 |
I | L |
| E |
| S |
II
inch
Center line of Garment
Center line of Garment
29
