Mower Cutting Blades, Parking the Mower

Note: Do not hold the key in the “Start” position for more than 10 seconds or you may damage the starter. If the engine does not start in this time, wait about 30 seconds and try again.

i.Gasoline Engine: Once the engine starts, push the choke on halfway and as the engine warms, push the choke off all the way.

4.Operating the Mower: Operating a zero-turn- ing-radius mower is not like operating a trac- tor-type riding mower. The zero-turning-radius mower is much more maneuverable and much less fatiguing to operate. However, get- ting used to the fingertip control of the zero- turning-radius mower takes some practice. We strongly recommend that you locate a “test area” where you can operate the mower for about 30 minutes without being disturbed.

a.Get into the operator’s seat.

b.Start the engine.

c.Use the transport lever to raise the mowing deck to the transport position. Make sure the blade clutch switch is off.

d.After the engine has warmed, adjust the throttle to the fast position.

e.Release the parking brake.

f.Fold in the steering levers to the operating position.

WARNING:

When operating this mower forward, do not allow the steering levers to return to the neu- tral position on their own. Always maintain a firm grip on the steering levers, operate them smoothly and avoid any sudden movements of the levers when starting or stopping.

g.To go forward, move both steering levers slightly forward and the mower will slowly move forward. The farther you move the levers forward the faster the mower will go forward.

h.To back up, move both steering levers slightly backward and the mower will slowly move backward. The farther you move the levers backward the faster the mower will go backward.

i.To turn, pull the lever back on the side to which you want to turn. The farther back you pull the lever, the faster and more sharply you will turn. Initially, you will have to be careful to avoid turning to fast and too far.

j.After you have mastered operating the mower, use the transport lever to lower the mowing deck to the cutting position and pull on the electric blade clutch switch to start the blades rotating.

k.Practice mowing in straight passes. When you feel confident, slowly practice mowing around obstacles such as trees.

5.Parking the Mower:

a.Push off the electric blade clutch switch.

b.Use the Deck Lift Handle to raise the mow- ing deck to the transport position.

c.Drive the mower to the cleanup or storage area.

d.Move the throttle to slow.

e.Place the steering levers in the neutral position.

f.Set the parking brake.

g.Turn off the ignition switch and take the key from the switch.

h.Close the fuel shutoff valves.

E.Mower Cutting Blades

The blades normally “factory installed” on a mower afford the best grass cutting performance on the majority of grasses and mowing conditions; however, there will be occasions whereby the grass type, stage of grass growth, soil conditions, and weather conditions will require different cutting blade types. Since the mower decks are designed so that over-lap of the cutting blades generally exceed 1.5”, there is no need for orientation of one cutting blade to an adjacent blade (I.E., the blades do not need to be “timed” nor synchronized).

Hi-lift- These are generally the best cutting blades for most grasses and mowing conditions. These blades will provide extra “lift” for the thinner leaf grasses, will handle lush grasses, and will provide maximum grass and debris discharge. These blades are generally required for material collection sys- tems. More horsepower is required for these blades when compared to others, and they generally pro- duce the highest noise levels.

Medium-lift- These blades require less horsepower than the hi-lift, and they generally work well in wider leaf grasses and some mulch applications.

Low-lift- These blades require less horsepower than hi-lift and medium-lift blades, and they generally work best with wide leaf grasses, sparse grass growth, and sandy soil conditions. They generally produce the lowest noise levels. Bahia blades are configured without offset, and with a maximum amount of sharp- ened cutting edge.

Mulch- These blades are generally designed for use in cutting decks equipped with mulch baffles. The shape of the blade generally produces higher turbu- lence in order that the grass can be repeatedly cut and re-cut into smaller pieces. These blades gener- ally require more horsepower than other blades. Mulch blades work best when the grasses are cut at the highest levels, minimal lengths of grasses are removed, and grass conditions are generally dry.