1.Up and Down Adjustment. Check for correct saddle height (fig. 3):
•sit on the saddle;
•place one heel on a pedal;
•rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel on it is in the down position and the crank
arm is parallel to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight and just touching the center of the pedal, your saddle height needs to be adjusted. If your hips must rock for the heel to reach the pedal, the saddle is too high. If your leg is bent at the knee with your heel on the pedal, the saddle is too low.
Once the saddle is at the correct height, make sure that the seatpost does not project from the frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark (fig. 4).
If your bike has an interrupted seat tube, as is the case on some bikes with rear suspension, you must also make sure that the seat post is far enough into the frame so that you can touch it through the bottom of the interrupted seat tube with the tip of your finger without inserting your finger beyond its first knuckle (see fig. 5).
fig. 4
fig. 5
WARNING: If your seat post projects from the frame beyond the Minimum Insertion or Maximum Extension mark (see fig. 4) or you cannot touch the bottom of the seat post through the bottom of the interrupted seat tube with the tip of your finger without inserting your finger beyond its first knuckle (see fig. 5), the seat post may break, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
2.Front and Back Adjustment. The saddle can be adjusted forward or back to help you get the optimal position on the bike. Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding position and to show you how to make further adjustments.
3.Saddle Angle Adjustment. Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some riders like the saddle nose angled up or down just a little. Your dealer can adjust saddle angle or teach you how to do it.
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