25. Install R19, 470 ohms
26. Install R27, 15k ohms
27. Install C23, 10nF (marked 103).
28. Install C22, 0.1uF capacitor (marked 104).
29. Install R22, the last 15k ohm resistor
30. Install R18, 10k ohms
31. Install R16, 10k ohms
32. Install R7, 4.7k ohms
33. Install R8, also 4.7k ohms
34. Install R11, 4.7k ohms
35. Install R10, another 4.7k ohm resistor
36. Install R24, 4.7k ohms (guess the color code or look above!!)
37. Install R23, yet another 4.7k ohm resistor
38. Install C26, the first of the 1uF electrolytics. Don’t confuse these with the 10uF parts you’ve been installing; they’re marked 1uF right on the side of the capacitor. They are polarity sensitive just like the others though, so follow the silkscreen for orientation of the positive lead.
39. Install C29, another 1uF electrolytic capacitor. Polarity!
40. Install C28 and C27, 10uF electrolytics. Again, be sure they’re marked as 10uF and watch the orientation when installing.
41. Install C25, 1uF electrolytic capacitor. Bet you can guess that I’m going to tell you to be sure you orient it correctly before soldering! But hey, being reminded beats a big popping sound when you fire up your kit and a cap explodes, doesn’t it?
42. Install C5, the honkin’ huge orange capacitor marked .1M and also 1KV. This part can be installed in either direction but please be sure you seat it down on the board as far as you can without damaging it. If you don’t then you’ll have trouble getting the top cover on, you’ll call me, and I’ll say “I told you so”. Let’s avoid all that and get it down on the board right away, then solder both leads. There are several holes all around this part so be sure you get the right ones;they are the two larger center holes within the silkscreen outline of the part.
43. Install C4, one of the large red 0.01uF capacitors (marked .01M).
44. Install C3, the other large red 0.01uF caps (marked .01M).
45. Install R30, a 5.6k ohm resistor