11.5.2Beads
1.Make a parting cut for what is to be a bead to the desired depth. Place the parting tool on the tool support and move tool forward to make the full bevel of the tool come into contact with the workpiece. Gently raise handle to make cut to the appropriate depth.
2.Repeat for other side of the bead.
3.Using a small skew or spindle gouge, start in the center between the two cuts and cut down each side to form the bead. Roll the tool in direction of cut.
11.5.3Coves
1.Use a spindle gouge. With the flute of the tool at 90 degrees to the workpiece, touch the point of the tool to the workpiece and roll in towards the bottom of the cove. See Figure 41. Stop at the bottom; attempting to go up the opposite side may cause the tool to catch.
Figure 41
2.Move the tool over the desired width of the cove.
3.With the flute facing the opposite direction, repeat step 1 for other side of cove. Stop at bottom of cut.
11.5.4"V" Cuts
1.Use the long point of the skew. (NOTE: Do not press the long point of the skew directly into the workpiece to create the "V"; this will result in a burned or burnished "V" with fibers being rolled up at both sides.)
2.Lightly mark the center of the "V" with the tip of the skew.
3.Move the point of the skew to the right half of the desired width of your cut.
4.With the bevel parallel to the right side of the cut, raise the handle and push the tool in to the desired depth, as shown in Figure 42.
25
Figure 42
5.Repeat from the left side. The two cuts should meet at the bottom and leave a clean "V" cut.
6.Additional cuts may be taken to add to either the depth or width of the cut.
11.5.5Parting Off
1.Use parting tool.
2.Adjust lathe speed to lower RPM for parting through a workpiece.
3.Place tool on tool support and raise the handle until it starts to cut and continue to cut toward center of workpiece.
4.Loosely hold on to the piece in one hand as it separates from the waste wood.
11.5.6Sanding and Finishing
Leaving clean cuts will reduce the amount of sanding required. Move the tool support out of the way, adjust the lathe to a low speed, and begin with fine sandpaper (120 grit or finer). Coarser sandpaper will leave deep scratches that are difficult to remove, and dull crisp details on the spindle. Progress through each grit without skipping grits (for example, do not jump from 120 grit to 220 grit). Fold the sandpaper into a pad; do not wrap sandpaper around your fingers or the workpiece.To apply a finish, the workpiece can be left on the lathe.
Turn off lathe and use a brush or paper towel to apply the finish. Remove excess finish before restarting lathe. Allow to dry and sand again with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper. Apply second coat of finish and buff.
11.6Face Plate and Bowl Turning
Face plate turning is normally done on the inboard side of the headstock over the bed. Larger workpieces must be turned on the outboard side (remove tailstock and tool support base, and slide headstock to opposite end of bed).