FIG. 30
FENCE |
TABLE |
CROWN MOLDING FLAT ON TABLE AND AGAINST FENCE
FIG. 31
BOTTOM OF TOP OF
MOLDING
MOLDING
TABLE
BACK OF
MOLDING
CROWN MOLDING BETWEEN FENCE AND TABLE
FIG. 32
BLADE
1.Position molding with top of the molding resting on the base of the saw
2.Miter left 45°
3.Save left side of cut
OUTSIDE CORNER:
Left side
1.Position molding with bottom of molding against the base of the saw
2.Miter right 45°
3.Save left side of cut
NOTE: If the cut must be made somewhere other than 1"
(25.4mm) from the end of the molding: cut off the molding at 90° approx. 1" (25.4mm) longer than your final length then make the miter cut as described above.
Right side
1.Position molding with bottom of the molding against the base of the saw
2.Miter left 45°
3.Save the right side of cut
A third method of making the cut necessary (Figure 29) is to make a zero degree miter, 45 degree bevel cut. Your saw can cut a bevel 12" (305mm) wide.
CUTTING BASE MOLDING LAYING FLAT AND USING THE BEVEL FEATURE
•All cuts made with the saw set at 45° bevel and 0 miter.
•All cuts made with back of molding laying flat on the saw and the bottom of the molding against the fence, as shown in Figure 29.
INSIDE CORNER:
Left side
1.Bevel 45° right
2.Save right side of cut Right side
1.Bevel 45° left
2.Save left side of cut
OUTSIDE CORNER: Left side
1.Bevel 45° left
2.Save right side of cut Right side
1.Bevel 45° right
2.Save left side of cut
(the section that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52 degrees and a bottom rear angle (the part that fits flat against the wall) of 38 degrees.
Your sliding compound miter saw has special
The chart on the next page gives the proper settings for cutting crown molding. (The numbers for the miter and bevel settings are very precise and are not easy to accurately set on your saw.) Since most rooms do not have angles of precisely 90 degrees, you will have to fine tune your settings anyway.
PRETESTING WITH SCRAP MATERIAL IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!
METHOD FOR CUTTING CROWN MOLDING ANGLED BETWEEN THE FENCE AND TABLE (NESTED)
Place the molding on the table at an angle between the fence and the saw table, as shown in Figure 31. Use of the crown molding fence accessory (DW7084) is highly recommended because of its degree of accuracy and con- venience. The crown molding fence accessory is available for purchase from your local dealer.
The advantage to cutting crown molding using this method is that no bevel cut is required. Minute changes in the miter angle can be made without affecting the bevel angle. This way, when corners other than 90 degrees are encountered, the saw can be quickly and easily adjusted for them. Use the crown molding fence accessory to maintain the angle at which the molding will be on the wall.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CUTTING CROWN MOLDING ANGLED BETWEEN THE FENCE AND BASE OF THE SAW FOR ALL CUTS:
1.Angle the molding so the bottom of the molding (part which goes against the wall when installed) is against the fence and the top of the molding is resting on the base of the saw, as shown in Figure 31.
2.The angled “flats” on the back of the molding must rest squarely on the fence and base of the saw.
INSIDE CORNER:
Left side
1.Miter right at 45°
2.Save the right side of cut Right side
1.Miter left at 45°
2.Save left side of cut
OUTSIDE CORNER:
English
FENCE
RIGHT
CUTTING CROWN MOLDING
To fit properly, crown molding must be cut with extreme accuracy.
The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding are at angles that, when added together, equal exactly 90 degrees. Most, but not all, crown molding has a top rear angle
Left side
1.Miter left at 45°
2.Save right side of cut
Right side
1.Miter right at 45°
2.Save left side of cut
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