GUARD ACTUATION AND VISIBILITY
CAUTION: Pinch Hazard. To reduce the risk of injury, keep thumb underneath the handle when pulling the handle down. The lower guard will move up as the handle is pulled down which could cause pinching.
The blade guard on your saw has been designed to automatically raise when the arm is brought down and to lower over the blade when the arm is raised.
The guard can be raised by hand when installing or removing saw blades or for inspection of the saw. NEVER RAISE THE BLADE GUARD MANUALLY UNLESS THE SAW IS TURNED OFF. NOTE: Certain special cuts of large material will require that you manually raise the guard. Refer to Cutting Large Material under Special Cuts.
The front section of the guard is louvered for visibility while cutting. Although the louvers dramati- cally reduce flying debris, they are openings in the guard and safety glasses should be worn at all times when viewing through the louvers.
MITER LOCK ADJUSTMENT (FIG. 11)
The miter lock rod should be adjusted if the table of the saw can be moved when the miter lock handle is locked down. To adjust, put the miter lock handle in the up position. Using a slotted screwdriver, adjust the lock rod in 1/8 clockwise turn increments to increase the lock force. To ensure the miter lock is functioning properly,
Brushes
WARNING:To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change accessories or make any adjustments accept as written in laser adjustment instructions.
Inspect carbon brushes regularly by unplugging tool, removing the motor end cap (Fig. 2), lift the brush spring and withdraw the brush assembly. Keep brushes clean and sliding freely in their guides. Always replace a used brush in the same orientation in the holder as it was prior to its removal. Carbon brushes have varying symbols stamped into their sides, and if the brush is worn down to approximately 1/2" (12.7 mm), the spring will no longer exert pressure and they must be replaced. Use only identical DEWALT brushes. Use of the correct grade of brush is essential for proper operation of electric brake. New brush assemblies are available at DEWALT service centers. The tool should be allowed to “run in” (run at no load) for 10 minutes before use to seat new brushes. The electric brake may be erratic in operation until the brushes are properly seated (worn in). Always replace the brush inspection cap after inspection or servicing the brushes.
While “running in” DO NOT TIE, TAPE, OR OTHERWISE LOCK THE TRIGGER SWITCH ON.
HOLD BY HAND ONLY.
Controls
Your compound miter saw has several main controls, which will be discussed briefly here. For more information on these controls, see the respective sections later in the manual.
MITER CONTROL (FIG. 5)
The miter lock/adjustment lever and trigger allows you to miter your saw 50º left and right. To miter the saw, unlock miter lock lever (J) by pulling upward, squeeze the detent trigger (K) and set the miter angle desired on the miter scale. Lock miter lock handle by pressing downward. Override the detent trigger by rotating knob (Fig. 10, V).
TRIGGER SWITCH (FIG. 2)
The trigger switch turns your saw on and off. A hole is provided in the trigger for insertion of a padlock to secure the saw.
BEVEL LOCK (FIG. 8)
The bevel lock knob (L) allows you to bevel the saw 48º left or right. To loosen the handle and adjust the bevel setting, turn the handle counterclockwise, the saw head bevels easily to the left or to the right once the 0º bevel override knob (S) is pulled. To tighten, turn the handle clockwise. Bevel degree markings are on the bottom front of the saw arm (Fig. 7, M).
0º BEVEL OVERRIDE (FIG. 8)
The bevel stop override (S) allows you to bevel the saw to the right past the 0º mark.
The saw will automatically stop at 0º when brought up from the left. To move past 0º to the right, pull the bevel stop knob. The stop knob can be locked out by pulling the knob out and rotating it 180º.
45º BEVEL STOP OVERRIDES (FIG. 8)
The bevel stop overrides (N) are held secure with their attachment screw to prevent inadvertent movement. Use the bit on the blade wrench to loosen the attachment screw. This allows the slides, to be pulled outward and the saw head to pivot past the 45º mark. Be sure to retighten the attachment screw when finished.
33.85º BEVEL STOPS (FIG. 8)
The two pawls (P) are used to stop the saw head bevel setting at 33.85º. This setting is used primarily for cutting crown moldings laid flat on the table.
HEAD DOWNLOCK PIN (FIG. 8)
To lock the saw head in the down position, push the head down, push the pin (U) in and release the saw head. This will hold the saw head safely down for moving the saw from place to place. To release, press the saw head down and pull the pin out.
OPERATION
WARNING:To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change accessories or make any adjustments accept as written in laser adjustment instructions.
WARNING: Always use eye protection. All users and bystanders must wear eye protection that conforms to ANSI Z87.1 (CAN/CSA Z94.3).
Plug the saw into any household 60 Hz power source. Refer to the nameplate for voltage. Be sure the cord will not interfere with your work.
SWITCH
To turn the saw on, depress the trigger switch. To turn the tool off, release the switch. Allow the blade to spin up to full operating rpm before making the cut. Release the trigger switch and allow the brake to stop the blade before raising the saw head. There is no provision for locking the switch on, but a hole is provided in the trigger for insertion of a padlock to lock the saw off.
CUTTING WITH YOUR SAW
NOTE: Although this saw will cut wood and many
CROSSCUTS
Cutting of multiple pieces is not recommended but can be done safely by ensuring that each piece is held firmly against the table and fence. A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at any angle. A straight crosscut is made with the miter arm at the zero degree position. Set the miter arm at zero, hold the wood on the table and firmly against the fence. Turn on the saw by squeezing the trigger.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece damage and personal injury.
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm smoothly and slowly to cut through the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle other than zero. This angle is often 45° for making corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 50° left or right. After selecting the desired miter angle, be sure to lock miter lock lever. Make the cut as described above.
To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood, match the angle as close as possible. Cut the wood a little too long and measure from the pencil line to the cut edge to determine which direction to adjust the miter angle and recut. This will take some practice, but it is a commonly used technique.
BEVEL CUTS
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at a bevel to the wood. In order to set the bevel, loosen the bevel clamp knob and move the saw to the left as desired. (It is necessary to move the fence to allow clearance). Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the bevel clamp knob firmly.
Bevel angles can be set from 48° right to 48° left and can be cut with the miter arm set between zero and 50° right or left. At some extreme angles, the right or left side fence might have to be removed. To remove the left or right fence, unscrew the knobs several turns and slide the fence out.
QUALITY OF CUT
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape when finished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended saw blades for your saw and select the one that best fits your needs. Refer to Saw Blades under Optional Accessories.
BODY AND HAND POSITION (FIG. 12)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the miter saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands no closer than 6" (152 mm) from the blade. Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands in position until the trigger has been released and the blade has completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT YOU CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN IN FIGURE 12A.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance. As you move the miter arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the guard louvers when following a pencil line.
CLAMPING THE WORKPIECE
WARNING:To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change accessories or make any adjustments accept as written in laser adjustment instructions.
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable surface. Personal injury may occur.
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece damage and personal injury.
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand, (irregular shape, etc.) or your hand would be less than 6" (152 mm) from the blade, a clamp or other fixture must be used.
For best results use the DW7082 clamp made for use with your saw. It is available for purchase at your local retailer or DEWALT service center.
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or
TO INSTALL CLAMP (SOLD SEPARATELY)
1.Insert it into the hole behind the fence. The clamp should be facing toward the back of the miter saw. The groove on the clamp rod should be fully inserted into the base. Ensure this groove is fully inserted into the base of the miter saw. If the groove is visible, the clamp will not be secure.
2.Rotate the clamp 180º toward the front of the miter saw.
3.Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use the fine adjust knob to firmly clamp the workpiece.
NOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS.
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable surface.
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the
SUPPORT FOR LONG PIECES
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and discon- nect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change accessories or make any adjustments accept as written in laser adjustment instructions.
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES.
Never use another person as a substitute for a table extension; as additional support for a workpiece that is longer or wider than the basic miter saw table or to help feed, support or pull the workpiece.
For best results, use the DW7080 extension work support to extend the table width of your saw. Available from your dealer at extra cost. Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.
CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES AND OTHER
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a “FEEL” for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one shown in Figure 14. Sketch A in Figure 13 shows a joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two boards at 45° each to produce a 90° corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the zero position and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45°. The wood was positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence. The cut could also be made by mitering right and left with the broad surface against the fence.
CUTTING TRIM MOLDING AND OTHER FRAMES
Sketch B in Figure 13 shows a joint made by setting the miter arm at 45° to miter the two boards to form a 90° corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and the miter arm to 45°. Once again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
The two sketches in Figure 13 are for four side objects only.
As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes.
| - EXAMPLES - | |
NO. SIDES |
| ANGLE MITER OR BEVEL |
4 |
| 45° |
5 |
| 36° |
6 |
| 30° |
7 |
| 25.7° |
8 |
| 22.5° |
9 |
| 20° |
10 |
| 18° |
(The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length.) For a shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula. 180° divided by the number of sides equals the miter (if the material is cut vertically) or bevel angle (if the material is cut laying flat).
CUTTING COMPOUND MITERS
A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a bevel angle at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in Figure 15.
NOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel clamp knob and the miter lock knob are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any changes in bevel or miter.
The chart (Table 1) will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and miter settings for common compound miter cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle “A” (Figure 15) of your project and locate that angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across to find the correct miter angle.
Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts. Practice fitting the cut pieces together until you develop a feel for this procedure and feel comfortable with it.
Example: To make a