United States Stove 2827 Instructions for TWO-STEP Latch Operation, Fireplace Installation

INSTRUCTIONS FOR TWO-STEP LATCH OPERATION

1.Follow these instructions to operate you unit safely when operating the feed door.

2.Turn handle clockwise to the 12 o'clock position, pull the door open until you engage the second step (Fig. 12).

3.Hold the door in that position for approximately 10 seconds.

4.Then to open door, turn the handle counter clockwise to the 9 o'clock position and then continue to pull the door open. (Fig. 12A)

5.To close and latch the door, reverse steps 2 thru 4.

NOTE:

THIS NEW LATCHING MECHANISM MEETS CODES AND

PROVIDES MORE SAFETY FOR THE USER OF THIS STOVE.

Fig. 12 Fig. 12A

NOTE:

DURING OPENING AND CLOSING OF THE FEED AND ASH DOORS OF THIS HEATER, IT MAY SEEM THAT THE FIT OF THE DOOR IS "TOO TIGHT". AS THE HEATER IS FIRED, THE GASKETING "SETTLES" OR "SEATS" ITSELF IN THE DOOR. THE TIGHT FIT AT THE FACTORY AND BEFORE THE HEATER'S INITIAL FIRING IS TO INSURE A GOOD SEAL AFTER THE GASKETING "SETTLES".

FIREPLACE INSTALLATION

Connection of the stovepipe directly into the existing masonry chimney over the fireplace opening is the only approved method. This installation performs bet- ter, yielding easy to clean and inspect for creosote. Before beginning this type of installation plan carefully; a high de- gree of skill is required to insure safety.

An entry port for the stovepipe must be cut through the chimney with minimum damage to the fire clay liner. Some involved measurements may be required to locate the flue liner exactly. Before cutting, take time to mark the size and position of the entry port. Position the entry port so that at least 8 inches of the flue liner remains below the port.

Keep in mind that coal mantels and combustible trim around the fireplace must have adequate clearances from the heater and stovepipe or must be protected in an approved manner. Also, be sure to leave at least 24" clearance between the top of the stovepipe and the combustible ceiling or other com- bustibles. Placing the center of the entry port 2 feet below the ceiling will insure proper clearance for 6 inch, 8 inch, and 10 inch stovepipes. Next, install a fire clay (at least 5/8 in. thick) or metal thimble, being sure that the thimble is flush with the inner flue lining, secure the thimble in place with refractory mor- tar. The thimble should be surrounded on all sides with 8 inches of brickwork (solid masonry units) or 24 inches of stone.

Install the stovepipe as far as possible into the thimble, but not past the inside of the flue lining. There should be a small airspace (approximately 1/2 inch) between the stovepipe and thimble, allowing for expansion of the stove- pipe. Seal this airspace with high-tem- perature caulking or ceramic wool. Fi- nally, be sure to wire the damper close and apply the same sealant you used at the stovepipe and thimble junction.

Do not use the Type B installation (not illustrated in this manual), that is, vent- ing up through the fireplace opening, regardless of whether the fireplace opening is closed.

Masonry chimneys have several posi- tive attributes: If properly built, they are quite durable, and most homeowners consider them more attractive perhaps than a non-enclosed factory built chim- ney.

And, if the chimney is located within the confines of the house (that is, not at- tached to an exterior wall), its mass alone will store heat longer and con- tinue to release the heat long after the fire has died. Masonry chimneys have many disadvantages though.

Masonry chimneys constructed on an exterior wall are exposed to cold out- door temperatures, promoting greater heater loss, higher accumulations of creosote, and reduced draft which leads to poorer heater or furnace perfor- mance.

Concrete block chimneys (when not protected by a brick veneer) are inher- ently unsafe, result in poor draft, and are subject to rapid deterioration. They do not meet code and are not recom- mended.

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