ANODE ROD INSPECTION
Each water heater contains at least one anode rod, which will slowly deplete while protecting the glass-lined tank from corrosion and prolonging the life of the water heater. Once the anode is depleted, the tank will start to corrode, eventually developing a leak. Certain water conditions will cause a reaction between this rod and the water. The most common complaint associated with the anode rod is a “rotten egg smell” produced from the presence of hydrogen sulfide gas dissolved in the water. IMPORTANT: Do not remove this rod permanently as it will void any warranties. The parts list includes a special anode that can be ordered if water odor or discoloration occurs. NOTE: This rod may reduce but not eliminate water odor problems. The water supply system may require special aeration or chlorination equipment from a water conditioning company to successfully eliminate all water odor problems.
The use of a water softener may decrease the life of the water heater tank. The anode rod should be removed from the water heater tank every 3 years for inspection. The following are typical (but not all) signs of a depleted anode rod:
•The majority of the rod’s diameter is less than 3/8”.
•Significant sections of the support wire (approx. 1/3 or more of the anode rod’s length) are visible.
If the anode rod show signs of either or both it should be replaced. NOTE: Whether re-installing or replacing the anode rod, check for any leaks and immediately correct if found. In situations where clearance above the water heater is limited it may be necessary to bend the anode rod for removal. Flexible anode rods are available for replacement.
In replacing the anode:
1.Turn off gas supply to the water heater.
2.Shut off the water supply and open a nearby hot water faucet to depressurize the water tank.
3.Drain approximately 5 gallons of water from tank (Refer to the “Draining and Flushing” section for proper procedures). Close drain valve.
4.Remove old anode rod.
5.Use Teflon® tape or approved pipe sealant on threads and install new anode rod.
6.Turn on water supply and open nearby hot water faucet to purge air from water system. Check for any leaks and immediately correct any if found.
7.Restart the water heater as directed under the “Operating Your Water Heater” section. See the “Repair Parts Illustration” section for anode rod location.
Temperature-Pressure
Relief Valve Operation
The temperature-pressure relief valve must be manually operated at least once a year.
When checking the temperature-pressure relief valve operation, make sure that (1) no one is in front of or around the outlet of the temperature-pressure relief valve discharge line, and (2) that the water discharge will not cause any property damage, as the water may be extremely hot, see Figure 32.
FIGURE 32.
If after manually operating the valve, it fails to completely reset and continues to release water, immediately close the cold water inlet to the water heater, follow the draining instructions, and replace the temperature-pressure relief valve with a new one.
If the temperature-pressure relief valve on the appliance weeps or discharges periodically, this may be due to thermal expansion. You may have a check valve installed in the water line or a water meter with a check valve. Consult your local water supplier or service agency for further information. Do not plug the temperature-pressure relief valve.
Draining
The water heater should be drained if being shut down during freezing temperatures. Also periodic draining and cleaning of sediment from the tank may be necessary.
