American Water Heater 6510238 installation instructions Operational Conditions

Operational Conditions

Condensation

Moisture from the products of combustion condenses on the tank surface and the outside jacket of the water heater and forms drops of water which may fall onto the burner or other hot surfaces. This will produce a “sizzling” or “frying” noise. This condensation is normal and should not be confused with a leaking tank. Condensation may increase or decrease at different times of the year.

High efficient energy saver water heaters will produce larger amounts of condensation on initial start up or when a large amount of hot water is being used. Do not confuse this with a “tank leak”. Once the water reaches a temperature of 120°F and the tank warms up (usually 1-2 hours), the condensation will stop.

Important: It is always recommended that a suitable drain pan be installed under the water heater to protect the area from water damage resulting from normal condensation production or a leaking tank or piping connections. Refer to the “Location Requirements” on page 4-5. Under no circumstances is the manufacturer to be held responsible for any water damage in connection with this water heater.

Water Heater Sounds

During the normal operation of the water heater, sounds or noises may be heard. These noises are common and may result from the following:

1.Normal expansion and contraction of metal parts during periods of heat-up and cool-down.

2.Condensation causes sizzling and popping within the burner area and should be considered normal.

3.Sediment buildup in the tank bottom will create varying amounts of noise and may cause premature tank failure. Drain and flush the tank as directed under “Draining and Flushing”.

Smoke/Odor

The water heater may give off a small amount of smoke and odor during the initial start-up of the unit. This is due to the burning off of oil from the metal parts of a new unit and will disappear after a few minutes of operation.

Safety Shut-off

This water heater is designed to automatically shut-off in the event of the following:

1.The pilot flame is extinguished for any reason.

2.The water temperature exceeds 180°F (83°C).

A thermocouple is used to determine if a pilot flame is present and will shut off the gas supply to the main burner and the pilot burner if the flame is absent.

A high temperature limit switch or ECO (Energy Cut Off) in the tank is used to shut off the unit if the water temperature exceeds 180°F (83°C). The ECO is a single use switch and requires complete replacement of the entire thermostat. If the ECO should function, the water heater cannot be used until the thermostat is replaced by a qualified service agency. Contact your local dealer for service information.

Anode Rod/Water Odor

Each water heater contains at least one anode rod, which will slowly deplete while protecting the glass-lined tank from corrosion and prolonging the life of the water heater. Certain water conditions will cause a reaction between this rod and the water. Once the anode is depleted, the tank will start to corrode, eventually developing a leak. The most common complaint associated with the anode rod is a “rotten egg smell” produced from the presence of hydrogen sulfide gas dissolved in the water. Do not remove this rod permanently as it will void any warranties, stated or implied. The parts list includes a special anode that can be ordered if water odor or discoloration occurs. This rod may reduce but not eliminate water odor problems. The water supply system may require special filtration equipment from a water conditioning company to successfully eliminate all water odor problems.

Artificially softened water is exceedingly corrosive because the process substitutes sodium ions for magnesium and calcium ions. The use of a water softener may decrease the life of the water heater tank.

The anode rod should be removed from the water heater tank every 3 years for inspection. If the rod is more than 50% depleted, the anode rod should be replaced.

In replacing the anode:

1.Turn off gas supply to the water heater.

2.Shut off the water supply and open a nearby hot water faucet to depressurize the water tank.

3.Drain approximately 5 gallons of water from tank (Refer to “Draining and Flushing” for proper procedures). Close drain valve.

4.Remove old anode rod.

5.Use Teflon® tape or approved pipe sealant on threads and install new anode rod.

6.Turn on water supply and open nearby hot water faucet to purge air from water system.

7.Restart the water heater as directed under “Operating Your Water Heater.” See the "Repair Parts Illustration" for anode rod location on page 27.

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