Black & Decker BT1400 Always Support Long Pieces, Examples, No. Sides Angle Miter 25.7 22.5

Other convenient clamps such as spring, bar or C- clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of workpieces. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps and make a dry run before making the cut. Support for Long Pieces

Turn Off and Unplug Saw

ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES

For best results, use an extension work support to extend the table width of your saw. Support long work- pieces using any convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping. Cutting Picture Frames, and Other Four Sided Projects

To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a “FEEL” for your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the ones shown in Figure 8, which shows a joint made by setting the miter arm at 45 degrees to to miter the two boards to form a 90 degree corner. To make this type of joint, set the miter arm to 45 degrees. The wood was positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence.

As the number of sides changes, so do the miter angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes.

(The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length.) For a shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula. 180 degrees divided by the number of sides equals the miter.

- Examples -

No. Sides	Angle Miter
4	45°
5	36°
6	30°
7	25.7°
8	22.5°
9	20°
10	18°

Cutting Compound Miters

A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a bevel angle at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in Figure 8.

NOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel clamp knob (10) and the miter clamp

handle (4) are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any changes in bevel or miter.

Cutting Crown Molding

In order to fit properly, crown molding must be mitered with extreme accuracy. The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding are at angles that, when added together, equal exactly 90 degrees. Most, but not all, crown molding has a top rear angle (the section that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52 degrees and a bottom rear angle (the part that fits flat against the wall) of 38 degrees.

Pretesting with scrap material is extremely important! Place the bottom side (the side that will be against the wall) against the Miter SAW FENCE. Place the top (that part that will be against the ceiling) against the saw table and the crown molding fence.

Instructions for cutting crown M OLDING angled between the fence and the TABLE of the saw for all cuts:

1.Angle the molding so the bottom of the molding (part which goes against the wall when installed) is against the fence and the top of the molding is resting on the table of the saw.

2.The angled “flats” on the back of the molding must rest squarely on the fence and table of the saw.

INSIDE CORNER: Left side

1.Miter right at 45°

2.Save the right side of cut Right side

1.Miter left at 45°

2.Save left side of cut

OUTSIDE CORNER: Left side

1.Miter left at 45°

2.Save the right side of cut Right side

1.Miter right at 45°

2.Save left side of cut

ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS TO CHECK FOR CLEAR - ANCE AND CORRECTNESS OF CUTS.