moving the LEFT lap bar rearward. Release both lap bars and the machine should stop turning (this is a safety check, the normal procedure is for the operator to slowly bring the lap bars to the neutral position).

3.Start the Engine:

a.Open the fuel shutoff valve by selecting the left or right tank position.

b.Sit on the Seat. Set the parking brake “On”.

c.Make sure that the left and right steering levers are in their neutral position.

d.Turn the electric blade clutch switch “Off”.

e.Push the throttle control to a position a third of the way between slow and fast.

f.Insert the key in the ignition and start switch and turn the switch to “On”.

g.Turn the ignition key in a clockwise direction to the “Start” position until the engine starts.

Note: Do not hold the key in the “Start” posi- tion for more than 10 seconds or you may damage the starter. If the engine does not start in this time, wait about 30 seconds and try again.

4.Operating the Mower: Operating a zero-turning- radius mower is not like operating a tractor-type riding mower. The zero-turning-radius mower is much more maneuverable and much less fatigu- ing to operate. However, getting used to the fin- gertip control of the zero-turning-radius mower takes some practice. We strongly recommend that you locate a “test area” where you can oper- ate the mower for about 30 minutes without being disturbed.

a.Get into the operator’s seat.

b.Start the engine.

c.Use the upper foot pedal to raise the mowing deck to the transport position. Make sure the blade clutch switch is off.

d.After the engine has warmed, adjust the throt- tle to the fast position.

e.Release the parking brake.

f.Fold in the steering levers to the operating position.

WARNING:

When operating this mower forward, do not allow the steering levers to return to the neutral posi- tion on their own. Always maintain a firm grip on the steering levers, operate them smoothly and avoid any sudden movements of the levers when starting or stopping.

g.To go forward, move both steering levers slightly forward and the mower will slowly move forward. The farther you move the levers forward the faster the mower will go forward.

h.To back up, move both steering levers slightly backward and the mower will slowly move backward. The farther you move the levers

backward the faster the mower will go back- ward.

i.To turn, pull the lever back on the side to which you want to turn. The farther back you pull the lever, the faster and more sharply you will turn. Initially, you will have to be careful to avoid turning to fast and too far.

j.After you have mastered operating the mower, use the second foot pedal to lower the mowing deck to the cutting position and pull on the electric blade clutch switch to start the blades rotating.

k.Practice mowing in straight passes. When you feel confident, slowly practice mowing around obstacles such as trees.

5.Parking the Mower:

a.Push off the electric blade clutch switch.

b.Use the upper foot pedal to raise the mowing deck to the transport position.

c.Drive the mower to the cleanup or storage area.

d.Move the throttle to slow.

e.Place the steering levers in the neutral posi- tion.

f.Set the parking brake.

g.Turn off the ignition switch and take the key from the switch.

h.Close the fuel shutoff valves.

E.Mower Cutting Blades

The blades normally “factory installed” on a mower afford the best grass cutting performance on the majority of grasses and mowing conditions; however, there will be occasions whereby the grass type, stage of grass growth, soil conditions, and weather conditions will require different cutting blade types. Since the mower decks are designed so that over-lap of the cutting blades generally exceed 1.5”, there is no need for orientation of one cutting blade to an adjacent blade (I.E., the blades do not need to be “timed” nor synchronized).

Hi-lift- These are generally the best cutting blades for most grasses and mowing conditions. These blades will provide extra “lift” for the thinner leaf grasses, will handle lush grasses, and will provide maximum grass and debris discharge. These blades are generally required for material collection systems. More horsepower is required for these blades when compared to others, and they generally produce the highest noise levels.

Medium-lift- These blades require less horsepower than the hi-lift, and they generally work well in wider leaf grasses and some mulch applications.

Low-lift- These blades require less horsepower than hi- lift and medium-lift blades, and they generally work best with wide leaf grasses, sparse grass growth, and sandy soil conditions. They generally produce the lowest noise

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Cub Cadet 53AJ8CTX750 service manual Mower Cutting Blades, Start the Engine, Parking the Mower