DeWalt DW713 instruction manual To Install Clamp Sold Separately, Support for Long Pieces

English

WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable surface. Personal injury may occur.

WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw–not to any other part of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of the saw.

CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece damage and personal injury.

If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand, (irregular shape, etc.) or your hand would be less than 6" (152 mm) from the blade, a clamp or other fixture should be used.

For best results use the DW7082 clamp made for use with your saw. It is available through your local retailer or DEWALT service center at extra cost.

Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of material. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take time to make a dry run before making the cut. The left fence will slide from side to side to aid in clamping.

TO INSTALL CLAMP (SOLD SEPARATELY)

1.Insert it into the hole behind the fence. The clamp should be facing toward the back of the miter saw. The groove on the clamp rod should be fully inserted into the base. Ensure this groove is fully inserted into the base of the miter saw. If the groove is visible, the clamp will not be secure.

2.Rotate the clamp 180º toward the front of the miter saw.

3.Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use the fine adjust knob to firmly clamp the workpiece.

NOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS.

WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable surface.

FIG. 17

A.

B.

FIG. 19

FIG. 20

MITER

SCALE

FIG. 21

FIG. 18	WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped
	above the base of the saw whenever the clamp is used.
	Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw–not to
	any other part of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is
	not clamped on the edge of the base of the saw.
	SUPPORT FOR LONG PIECES
	WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal
	injury, turn off the tool and disconnect it from the
	power source before attempting to move it, change
	accessories or make any adjustments accept as
	written in laser adjustment instructions.
	ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES.
	Never use another person as a substitute for a table
	extension; as additional support for a workpiece that is
ANGLE “A”	longer or wider than the basic miter saw table or to help
	feed, support or pull the workpiece.
	For best results, use the DW7080 extension work support
	to extend the table width of your saw. Available from your
	dealer at extra cost.
	Support long workpieces using any convenient means
	such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends
	from dropping.
	CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES AND
	OTHER FOUR-SIDED PROJECTS
	To best understand how to make the items listed here,
	we suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap
	wood until you develop a “FEEL” for your saw.
	Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the
	one shown in Figure 17. Sketch A in Figure 17 shows
	a joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the
	edges of the two boards at 45° each to produce a 90°
	corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the zero
	position and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45°. The
	wood was positioned with the broad flat side against the
	table and the narrow edge against the fence. The cut could
	also be made by mitering right and left with the broad
	surface against the fence.
	CUTTING TRIM MOLDING AND OTHER FRAMES
	Sketch B in Figure 17 shows a joint made by setting the
	miter arm at 45° to miter the two boards to form a 90°
	corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment
	to zero and the miter arm to 45°. Once again, position the
	wood with the broad flat side on the table and the narrow
	edge against the fence.
	The two sketches in Figure 17 are for four sided objects
	only.
	As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and
	bevel angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for
	a variety of shapes. The chart assumes that all sides are
	of equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart,
	use the following formula. 180° divided by the number of
	sides equals the miter or bevel angle.

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