DeWalt DW717 Bevel Cuts, Quality of CUT, Body and Hand Position a, Clamping the Workpiece

When cutting anything larger than 111.8 mm (4.4") [76.2 mm (3")

45º miter] use an out-down-back motion with the rail lock knob loosened. Pull the saw out, toward you, lower the saw head down toward the workpiece, and slowly push the saw back to complete the cut. Do not allow the saw to contact the top of the workpiece while pulling out. The saw may run toward you, possibly causing personal injury or damage to the workpiece.

CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece damage and personal injury.

NOTE: The rail lock knob shown in Figure 4 must be loose to allow the saw to slide along its rails.

Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle other than zero. This angle is often 45º for making corners, but can be set anywhere from left or right. Make the cut as described above.

When cutting wider workpieces wider than a 2 x 6 that are shorter in length, always place the longer side against the fence (Fig. 12).

To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood, match the angle as close as possible. Cut the wood a little too long and measure from the pencil line to the cut edge to determine which direction to adjust the miter angle and recut. This will take some practice, but it is a commonly used technique.

BEVEL CUTS

A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at an angle to the wood. In order to set the bevel, loosen the bevel lock handle, lift the bevel latch lever, Figure 4, and move the saw to the left or right as desired. (It is necessary to move the fence to allow clearance). Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the bevel clamp handle firmly.

Bevel angles can be set from 48º right to 48º left and can be cut with the miter arm set between 50º right or 60º left. At some extreme angles, the right or left side fence might have to be removed. To remove the left or right fence, unscrew the fence capturing screw and fence adjustment knob several turns and slide the fence out.

QUALITY OF CUT

The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut.

When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.

Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.

If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape when finished.

FIG. 11 FIG. 13A

PROPER CUT

FIG. 12 FIG. 13B

IMPROPER CUT

For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended saw blades for your saw and select the one that best fits your needs (Page 5).

BODY AND HAND POSITION (FIG. 13A)

Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the miter saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands no closer than 6" (152.4 mm) from the blade.

Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands in position until the trigger has been released and the blade has completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT YOU CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN IN FIGURE 13B.

Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance. As you move the miter arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the guard louvers when following a pencil line.

CLAMPING THE WORKPIECE

WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change accessories or make any adjustments accept as written in laser adjustment instructions.

WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable surface. Personal injury may occur.

WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base

of the saw–not to any other part of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of the saw.

If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand, (irregular shape, etc.) or your hand would be less than 152.4 mm (6") from the blade, a clamp or other fixture must be used.

For best results use the DW7082 clamp made for use with your saw. Another type of clamp may be supplied with your DW717. To purchase the DW7082 contact your local retailer or DEWALT service center.

Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of material. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take time to make a dry run before making the cut. The left or right fence will slide from side to side to aid in clamping.

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