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Felling the Tree
A falling tree can seriously damage anything it may hit - a car, a house, a fence, a power line, or another tree. There are ways to make a tree fall where you want it, so first decide where that is!
Before cutting, clear the area around the tree. You will need good footing while working and you should be able to work the saw without hitting any obstacles. Next, select a path of retreat. When the tree begins to fall you should retreat away from the direction of fall at a
Begin the cut on the side to which the tree is to fall. Cut a notch about 1/3 of the way into the tree. The position of this notch is important since the tree will try to fall “into” the notch. The felling cut is made on the side opposite the notch and at a level about 5 cm (2 in.) above the bottom of the notch. Do not try to cut through to the notch with the felling cut. The remaining
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3 m (10 feet) | |||
Direction of fall |
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| Retreat |
| 45° |
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45° |
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Retreat |
| Not this way |
Direction of fall
Hinge 5 cm (2 in.)
First cut | Felling cut |
wood between the notch cut and felling cut about 5 cm (2 in.) will act as a hinge when the tree falls, guiding it in the desired direction. When the tree starts to fall, kill the engine, place the saw on the ground and make your retreat quickly.
Notch
Second cut
5 cm (2 in.)
To fell big trees with a diameter exceeding twice the bar length, start the notching cuts from one side and draw the saw through to the other side of the notch. Start the back cut on one side of the tree, pivoting the saw through to form the desired hinge on that side. Then remove the saw for the second cut. Insert the saw in the first cut, very carefully so as not to cause kickback. The final cut is made by drawing the saw forward in the cut to reach the hinge.
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Limbing
Limbing a fallen tree is much the same as bucking.
Never stand on the tree that you are limbing. When limbing, caution is the word. Be careful of the tip touching other limbs. Always use both hands.
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