each socket, the board is marked to indicate the side of the hole on which the center mounting tab should be positioned, so that it will be soldered to the widest part of the circuitry on the back side. Leave the phono plug in the socket while bending and soldering is completed. If you do not bend the center tab quite flat against the board, it is easier for solder to flow under the tab for a good connec- tion. Solder both outer socket lugs first (they need not be bent over), and then the center tab on each socket. At J9 be careful that a solder bridge is not made between the center contact and the adjacent circuit track. Be sure holes Q and S are not filled with solder when installing sockets J 11 and J 1 1 1. A wooden toothpick will keep them open.
14 0 Select the two right angle 15-pin plugs, and install their shorter pins at locations J22 and J24 at the top of the board, so that the bent pins point toward the upper edge. Be sure these sockets are tight against the board, and make certain that every pin connec- tion is properly soldered. Examine each connection closely to make sure there are no solder bridges between the tracks.
150 Prepare a 1” piece of green wire, and form it into a ½” wide “U”. This wire connects on the back of the board between holes A and B. Allow this wire to sit a bit above the board, as it is a jumper which you may wish to remove at some future date, if you install a
160 Prepare a 1” piece of red wire, and form it into a “U” as before. Connect it in like manner to holes C and D on the back of the board.
170 Select the two 10,000 pF capacitors and install them on the front of the board at locations C1 and C101.
180 Select the 2 long bright screws, the 2 lockwashers, and two of the spacers. Place a lockwasher over each screw first, and insert the screw from the back
(circuit side) of the board into one of the mounting holes next to the rear jumpers. Add a spacer on the components side, and tighten it. Set the completed board assembly aside.
19 0 Select the back panel, the AC line cord, and the plas- tic strain relief. Separate the two conductors at the end of the cord for 2”. Cut 3/4" off of one conductor. Strip both ends the usual ¼", and tin the strands to secure them. Six inches from the longer end make a sharp V in the cord by bending it back on itself. Install the strain relief as shown in the drawing. The small end of the strain relief is nearest the stripped ends. Crimp the two halves of the strain relief together around the cord with heavy pliers to par- tially form it before insertion into the back panel.
Then grip the larger portion of the strain relief with the tips of the pliers, squeeze it tightly, and insert the end of the cord and the strain relief through the panel hole from the outside. Note that the hole has a flat on one side, and the strain relief is installed so that the cord is horizontal.
This is the most difficult step in the kit. Patience, and a friend’s help, if available, will make this job easier. Safety requirements dictate that this be a tight fit. Some persons might find it helpful to bolt on a side piece (with the flanges out) to add rigidity to the back panel, as well as a support to press against the back panel while you squeeze the strain relief and pull the line cord through. The fixture snaps into pos- ition when it is fully inserted. Remove the side piece if you attached it.
20 0 Select the power transformer and 2 sets of #6 hardware. Install the transformer next to the line cord so that the leads are in the lower comer below the strain relief.
21 0 Select the 4 AC sockets. Snap these into the back panel holes from the outside.
220 Select the
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