SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
We recommend that you use a bar that is longer than the diameter of the tree, so that you can make the FELLING CUT and DIRECTIONAL CUT with single cutting stokes. (See ”Technical data” to find out which lengths of bar are recommended for your saw).
There are methods for felling trees with a diameter larger than the bar length. However these methods involve a much greater risk that the kickback zone of the bar will come into contact with the tree.
!UNLESS YOU HAVE SPECIAL TRAINING WE ADVISE YOU NOT TO FELL TREES WITH A DIAMETER LARGER THAN THE BAR LENGTH OF YOUR SAW!
ELimbing
!MOST KICKBACK ACCIDENTS HAPPEN DURING LIMBING!PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE POSITION OF THE KICKBACK ZONE OF THE BAR WHEN YOU ARE LIMBING BRANCHES THAT ARE IN TENSION!
Make sure there are no obstacles in your way. Work on the left side of the trunk. Work close to the saw for maximum control. If possible, let the weight of the saw rest on the trunk.
Keep the tree between you and the saw as you move along the trunk.
F Cutting the trunk into logs
See chapter ”General working instructions” point 2 ”Basic cutting technique”.
4Freeing a tree that has fallen badly = high accident risk
AFreeing a “Trapped tree”
The safest method is to use a winch.
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BCutting trees and branches that are in tension Preparations:
a)Work out which way the tree or branch will move if released and where the natural “BREAKING POINT” is (i.e. the place it would break if it was bent even more).
b)Decide which is the SAFEST way to release the tension and whether YOU are able to do it safely. In complicated situations the only safe method is to put aside your chain saw and use a winch.
General advice:
a)Position yourself so that you will be clear of the
tree or branch when it springs free.
b)Make one or more cuts at or near the BREAKING POINT. Make as many cuts of sufficient depth as necessary to reduce the tension and make the tree or branch break at the
BREAKING POINT.
Never cut straight through a tree or branch that is IS in tension!
English – 23
