WORKING TECHNIQUES
Clearing the trunk and preparing your retreat
Delimb the stem up to shoulder height. It is safer to work from the top down and to have the tree between you and the saw.
Remove any undergrowth from the base of the tree and check the area for obstacles (stones, branches, holes, etc.) so that you have a clear path of retreat when the tree starts to fall. Your path of retreat should be roughly 135 degrees away from the intended felling direction.
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1Danger zone
2Retreat path
3Felling direction
Felling
! | WARNING! Unless you have special |
training we advise you not to fell trees | |
| with a diameter larger than the bar length |
| of your saw! |
Felling is done using three cuts. First you make the directional cuts, which consist of the top cut and the bottom cut, then you finish with the felling cut. By placing these cuts correctly you can control the felling direction very accurately.
Directional cuts
To make the directional cut you begin with the top cut. Aim using to the saw’s felling direction mark (1) toward a goal further forward in the terrain, where you would like the tree
to fall (2). Stand on the
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Next make the bottom cut so that it finishes exactly at the end of the top cut.
The directional cuts should run 1/4 of the diameter through the trunk and the angle between the top cut and bottom cut should be 60° - 70°.
The line where the two cuts meet is called the directional cut line. This line should be perfectly horizontal and at right angles (90°) to the chosen felling direction.
Felling cut
The felling cut is made from the opposite side of the trunk and it must be perfectly horizontal. Try to take a correct position so you are able to cut on the pull stroke.
Make the felling cut about
Set the spike bumper (if one is fitted) just behind the felling hinge. Use full throttle and advance the chain/bar slowly into the tree. Make sure the
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