23
TROUBLESHOOTING

Try the solutions suggested here first in order to avoid the

cost of an unnecessary service call.

Your refrigerator will not operate

■Is the power supply cord unplugged? Plug into a grounded
3 prong outlet.
■Has a household fuse blown or circuit breaker tripped?
Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker.
■Is the refrigerator or freezer control turned to the OFF
position? See “Using the Controls.”
■Is the refrigerator defrosting? Recheck to see whether the
refrigerator is operating in 30 minutes. Your refrigerator will
regularly run an automatic defrost cycle.
■Is the refrigerator not cooling? For models with digital
controls, turn the unit OFF then ON again to reset. See “Using
the Controls.” If this does not correct the problem, call for
service.

The lights do not work

■Is the power supply cord unplugged? Plug into a grounded
3 prong outlet.
■Is a light bulb loose in the socket or burned out? See
“Changing the Light Bulbs.”

There is water in the defrost drain pan

■Is the refrigerator defrosting? The water will evaporate. It is
normal for water to drip into the defrost pan.
■Is it more humid than normal? When it is humid, expect that
the water in the defrost pan will take longer to evaporate.

The motor seems to run too much

■Is the room temperature hotter than normal? The motor
will run longer under warm conditions. At normal room
temperatures, expect your motor to run about 40% to 80% of
the time. Under warmer conditions, it will run even more.
■Has a large amount of food just been added to the
refrigerator? Adding a large amount of food warms the
refrigerator. The motor normally will run longer to cool the
refrigerator back down.
■Are the doors opened often? The motor will run longer
when this occurs. Conserve energy by getting all items out at
one time, keeping food organized, and closing the door as
soon as possible.
■Are the controls not set correctly for the surrounding
conditions? See “Using the Controls.”
■Are the doors not closed completely? Close the doors
firmly. If they do not close completely, see “The doors will not
close completely” later in this section.
■Are the condenser coils dirty? This prevents air transfer and
makes the motor work harder. Clean the condenser coils. See
“Cleaning.”
■Are the door gaskets not sealed all the way around?
Contact a technician or other qualified person.
NOTE: Your new refrigerator will run longer than your old one
due to its high-efficiency motor.

The refrigerator seems to make too much noise

■The sounds may be normal for your refrigerator. See “Normal
Sounds.”

The ice maker is not producing ice or not enough ice

■Has the ice maker just been installed? Wait 72 hours for full
ice production to begin. Once your refrigerator is cooled, the
ice maker should produce 70 to 120 cubes every 24 hours.
■Is the freezer temperature cold enough to produce ice?
Wait 24 hours after ice maker hookup for ice production. See
“Using the Controls.”
■Is the ice maker wire shutoff arm in the OFF (arm up)
position (on some models)? Lower the wire shutoff arm to
the ON (arm down) position. See “Ice Maker and Storage
Bin.”
■Is the ice maker switch in the OFF (right) position (on
some models)? Move ice maker switch to the ON (left)
position. See “Ice Maker and Storage Bin.”
■Is the water line shutoff valve to the refrigerator turned
on? Turn on the water valve. See “Water Supply Connection.”
■Does the ice maker mold have water in it or has no ice
been produced? Make sure your refrigerator has been
connected to a water supply and the supply shutoff valve is
turned on. See “Water S upply Conn ection.”