wall and fasten the vent cap to the wall using the 4 screws
(provided with the unit) in the holes prepared in the vent cap
plate.
Making certain that the vent cap is flushed to the outer wall,
draw a line all the way around the vent pipe where it comes
through the inside wall. (Note: this line only marks the point
where the pipe comes through the wall. It is not where you
will cut the pipes).
Remove the vent assembly from the wall. Measure 7/ 16” (11
mm) from the line just made and make a mark towards the
open end of the pipe.
Mark several spots around the pipe insulation at this 7/ 16”
(11mm) distance and then tape a sheet of paper around the pipe
at this time to assure an even cut.
Use a cutter knife to cut only the insulation and its lining and a
hack saw or tin snips to cut the larger pipe at the cut line on the
edge of the paper.
Cut a clean, straight line on the outside tube, being careful not
to crimp or deform the tube.
It is very important that this be a clean straight cut for the
heater to perform properly.
On MV 120 and MV 130 units, you must proceed to cut the
insulation again through the line originally traced (flush line of
the inner wall, 7/16” back from the cut end of the tube). (See
drawing)
On MV145 units, you must proceed to cut the lower edge of
the insulation (only this part, not the complete circumference)
to allow the ventilation come through the wall mounting
support bar. Cut according following drawing:
Measure now 2” (50.8 mm) from the cut end of the larger pipe
and make a mark on the inner pipe. Be certain that the inner
pipe is thoroughly marked so that it will be 2” (50.8 mm)
longer than the larger pipe when cut. The inner pipe needs to be
cut with a hacksaw.
Remember to remove the vent assembly from the wall in
order to cut the tubes
Installing the vent assembly and wall support plate
In case outside wall is of tiled wood construction, rough or
unlevelled, the use of silicone sealing compound to avoid
the indicated diameter in both walls and cut them. Your hole
will be about 1 to 2” (26 to 52 mm), depending on the unit
model, larger in diameter than the vent pipe.
Make sure the two holes (in the inside and the outside wall) are
concentric to one another and line up. If the opening in the
outside wall is higher than the opening in the inside wall, water
from rain or from lawn sprinklers could enter the vent cap and
drip back into the heater, causing it to rust out. Use a
carpenter´s level and square to confirm that the two holes are
level and in line with one another.
If the vent cap is to be installed on shingles or clapboards, or if
it appears that a projection within 6” (152.4 mm) of the air inlet
section could shield the air inlet, the entire vent should be
supported away from the wall as shown in Figure 6.
For vinyl siding installation, order the appropriated kit
through the Parts Department.
Note: the vent assembly of MV 145 units has off-centre tubes
and must be installed in a certain position. Make sure the arrow
engraved on its ring is located in the upper position. If not,
connecting the inner pipe in the appliance won´t be possible.
Marking and cutting the vent pipes to the proper length
From the outside of the building, push the vent assembly
through the hole until the vent cap flange is against the outer
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS (cont.)Figure 6
Figure 7
Vent cap
Support
box
Pilot burner
viewing