A2/7 Exposure Meters
see alsoThe Zone System (page 69)
Using the Nikon Spot Meter (page 68)
EV & LV (page 74)
INTRODUCTION ANDHow to use a digital camera as an excellent light meter (page 87)
HINT: As of 2006 the best meter for any film camera is a calibrated digital camera. You can use a DSLR's LCD to preview the effects of lighting, light ratios, zone values, color temperatures and everything. It's like looking at a processed chrome on a light table. Once you get the look you want on the LCD you just transfer the exposure from the DSLR to your film camera! Be sure to read here (page 87) on how to calibrate it to your film camera.
The best meter is the one built into your camera. I always use the matrix meter in my SLR and shoot in Program Automatic. I only mess with handheld meters with my larger format cameras that have no meters built in. I hate using the hand held meters I address below.
If you aren't getting the exposure you want then adjust the camera's exposure compensation, which is usually marked as
Built in meters usually read
This article is if you are shooting digital or slides. If you're shooting negatives (print film) then you can just guess at exposure unless you're printing yourself. If someone else is printing your negatives then exposure issues are almost always caused by bad printing and not your exposures, although the lab will try to blame it on you.
Ansel Adams used a Pentax Digital Spotmeter. It's my favorite. It was sold new through 2005, and as of 2006 seems to no longer be available new. Before the digital meter, which has red LEDs at the bottom of its viewfinder, Ansel and I used
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