Niles Audio DS8.3, DS8..5 manual Pulling the Cable, Concealing Loudspeaker Wire in Existing Walls

Try to line the holes up perfectly, because it makes pulling the wire much easier. A good technique is to snap a chalk line across the face of the studs or against the bottom of the ceiling joists. Then work backward so that you can always see the holes you have already drilled. Paying careful attention to this will save you a lot of time later on!

Pulling the Cable

Pull the cable in sections (from the stereo to the volume control, from the volume control to the loudspeaker). Start with the longest sections and use left over wire to complete the short sections. If you plan to pull many rooms at the same time through a central route, walk off the distance to each destination, add a generous fudge factor for turns and other obstacles, then cut off each section so that you have a bundle of wires you can pull at once.

Whenever you run the wire further than four and one half feet from a hole in a stud or joist (open attic space, going up walls, etc.), fasten the wire to the joists or studs using cable clamps or appropriately sized wire staples. The wire should not have large sags in it, nor should it be too tight. Try to protect the wire from being stepped on in attics or other unfinished crawl spaces. There are guard strips, raceways and conduits which can be used to protect the cable. Consult the local building code for special requirements in your area.

Concealing Loudspeaker Wire in Existing Walls

This is actually a fairly simple task if you restrict your choice of loudspeaker loca- tions and wire routes to the interior walls or ceilings of your home. Interior walls in almost all North American residences are hollow, so that it is easy to flush mount loudspeakers into them and route new loudspeaker cable around the house.

What you see when you look at the paint- ed wall board, plaster, or paneling is only

theskinof the wall. Behind the skin is the skeleton; two-by-four wood or metal “studs” running vertically from the floor to the ceiling in walls and two-by-six or larger “joists” running horizontally in the ceilings and floors. In between the studs and the joists is the space for the wiring and plumbing of your home.

Exterior walls are different. They must insulate the house from the heat and cold outside, so they are stuffed with insulation. The national building code requires that the hollow wall space in exterior walls be broken by a horizontal stud placed between the vertical studs. This “fire blocking” makes it very difficult to retrofit long lengths of wire. In some areas of the country the exterior walls are constructed of solid masonry, and have no hollow space for loudspeakers or wires.

Start by examining all the possible routes you might take to run the loudspeaker wire from the loudspeaker to the volume control and back to the stereo. Use a stud sensor or other device to locate the inter- nal structure of the wall. You want to avoid all studs or joists. A typical route would be: from the loudspeaker location in the ceiling, across the attic, then down through a top plate (the horizontal 2x4 or 2x6 laid across the vertical studs) to the volume control location, back up to the attic, across the attic, and finally down another wall plate to a J-Box in the wall behind the stereo system itself (See Figure 8).

Identify where all of your electrical, phone, and TV wiring is likely to be and plan to route around it all. You can acci- dentally induce 60Hz hum on your loud- speakers if you run your speaker wire right

Installation Fundamentals

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