After selecting the mounting location, mark the hole to be cut out. A template is provided in the speaker box. Locate and align the template, then mark with pencil on the ceiling surface. If you are unsure whether there are obstructions behind the ceiling surface where the speakers are to be mounted, cut a small hole in the center of your marked mounting location. Holding your drywall saw at a 45 degree angle (See Figure 2), cut a square hole that you can use to locate any obstructions, should they exist.
ROOM
Figure 2
The 45 degree wedge shape of the removed surfacing material will make replacement, if necessary, a much easier task and yield a better finish when patching the work.
Once it has been determined that there are no obstruc- tions, cut the hole to mount the speaker using the drywall saw at a 90 degree angle to the ceiling surface. Cover the raw edges of the wallboard with masking tape (Figure 3). This will prevent the back pressure of the speaker from blowing loose gypsum dust out and onto the painted ceiling surface after installation. Do not allow the tape to extend more than 1/4” beyond the edge of the hole into the room. The frame of the speaker will cover and hide the tape.
Masking T.ape
ROOM
Figure 3
Next run your speaker wire to your speaker locations. A UL rated CL3 speaker wire is recommended when running wire inside your walls. In many areas it may be required by code. When running your speaker wire you should avoid having the speaker wire run parallel to the 120V power lines to avert picking up hum and interference from the power service. If the speaker wire needs to cross a 120V power line at a right angle this is acceptable and will not create a problem.
If you are uncomfortable with running the speaker wire yourself in existing construction, it is recommended that you retain a qualified custom home installation specialist or electrician.
Installing the Speakers
Installation Tip! To further enhance the performance of your ATC Series speakers, the ceiling joist cavity where you plan to place your speakers can be stuffed with a generous quantity of fiberglass insulation. Stuff the area in front of and behind the speaker opening with 6” thick insulation to a depth of approximately 2 feet beginning 1 foot in front and 1 foot behind the speaker opening. If the insulation is foil or paper backed, face the backing away from the ATC Series speaker. The addition of this insulation will help prevent unwanted transfer of sound into the otherwise large and resonant cavity of the un- insulated ceiling.
Grill Removal for Installation
CAUTION! The grill is held in place by contact pressure around the edges where it attaches to the speaker frame. To avoid difficulty reinstalling the grill, care should be taken to not distort its shape while removing it.
While looking at the rear of the speaker assembly, rotate two of the adjacent mounting clamps outward and then evenly press them towards the grill. The clamp screws contact the inner surface of the grill, pushing it gently out of its mounting groove (Figure 4). Only lift the grill 1/4" (6mm) at this location. Next use the other mounting clamps to further loosen the grill. Use care to not distort the grill shape.
1/4"(6mm) 
Figure 4
It is now time to connect the speaker wire to the speaker. Your speaker wire is usually coded to identify each conductor as either positive or negative. This can be by color coding, or one conductor may have a printed marking or at least a rib along one edge that you will not find on the other. Identify which type of polarity coding that your wire is using. You must carefully observe that the positive terminal of the speaker output on your amplifier is connected to the positive terminal of the ATC Series speaker. Likewise, the negative terminal of the amplifier’s speaker output should be connected to the negative terminal of the ATC Series speaker (Figure 5).
(+) Amp
2 | Figure 5 |
