AF1 • 12
31. Using a scrap component lead, form and install JMP11.
32. Install C13, .1 uF disc [marked .1 or 104].
33. Install C2, .001 uF disc capacitor [marked 102 or .001].
34. Install R1, 47K ohm [yellow-violet-orange]. I’ll bet you didn’t forget to
stand it up.
35. Install C10, .01 uF disc capacitor [marked .01 or 103 or 10nF].
36. Install C12, .01 uF disc cap (that's snazzy electronics lingo for
capacitor). Again, its marked .01 or 103 or 10nF.
Seems like we put this off forever, but it is now time to install the LM380
audio amplifier IC. Be advised that an IC socket IS NOT advisable in this
application as the large copper trace acts as a heat “sink” for the IC. This
prevents the chip from overheating when in use.
37. Now that you’re all warmed up with your soldering iron (pun
intended), install the LM380 14 pin IC. Notice that one end of the chip is
marked with a dot, notch, or band. Be sure to orient this end as shown in
the parts diagram.
38. Install C1, .1 uF disc capacitor [marked .1 or 104].
39. Install R6, 100K ohm [ brown-black-yellow].
40. Install C6, 10 uF electrolytic. Check polarity when installing this part.
41. Using some more of your scrap component leads, form and install
JMP5, 6, 7, 8, and 9. Circuit board space gets pretty tight underneath the
MF8 IC’s so a few jumpers are needed to complete the necessary
connections to the chip.
42. Install C3, 10 uF electrolytic. Did you check the orientation?
43. Install C8, 100 pF mica type disc cap [marked 100 or 101].
44. Install R12, 100K ohm [brown-black-yellow].
45. Install R4, 294K ohm [red-white-yellow-orange]. It is mounted lying
down - I sure hope it doesn’t fall asleep on the job!
46. Install R16, 15, and 11; all 10K ohm stand up resistors [brown-black-
orange].
47. Install C7, 10 uF electrolytic capacitor. Check the polarity.
48. Install R10, 10K ohm [brown-black-orange].
49. Form and install JMP10, the last jumper wire.
50. Install R17, 10K ohm [brown-black-orange]. Notice that I’m not
reminding you to stand it up anymore.