OPERATION

ROUTING

For ease of operation and maintaining proper control, your router has two handles, one on each side of the router base. When using your router hold it firmly with both hands as shown in figure 9. Turn router on and let motor build to its full speed, then gradually feed cutter into workpiece. Remain alert and watch what you are doing. DO NOT operate router when fatigued.

PROPER FEEDING

The right feed is neither too fast nor too slow. It is the rate at which the bit is being advanced firmly and surely to produce a continuous spiral of uniform chips — without hogging into the wood to make large individual chips or, on the other hand, to create only sawdust. If you are making a small diameter, shallow groove in soft, dry wood, the proper feed may be about as fast as you can travel your router along your guide line. On the other hand, if the bit is a large one, the cut is deep or the wood is hard to cut, the proper feed may be a very slow one. Then, again, a cross-grain cut may require a slower pace than an identical with grain cut in the same workpiece.

There is no fixed rule. You will learn by experience. . . by listening to the router motor and by feeling the progress of each cut. If at all possible, always test a cut on a scrap piece of the workpiece wood, beforehand.

RATE OF FEED

IMPORTANT: The whole "secret" of professional routing and edge shaping lies in making a careful set-up for the cut to be made and in selecting the proper rate of feed.

Fig. 9

TOO FAST

FORCE FEEDING

Clean, smooth routing and edge shaping can be done only

 

 

when the bit is revolving at a relatively high speed and is

 

 

taking very small bites to produce tiny, cleanly severed

 

 

chips. If your router is forced to move forward too fast, the

 

 

RPM of the bit becomes slower than normal in relation to its

 

 

forward movement. As a result, the bit must take bigger bites

 

 

as it revolves. “Bigger bites” mean bigger chips, and a

 

 

rougher finish. Bigger chips also require more power, which

 

 

could result in the router motor becoming overloaded.

TOO SLOW

Fig. 10

Under extreme force-feeding conditions the relative RPM of

 

 

the bit can become so slow—and the bites it has to take so

TOO SLOW FEEDING

 

large—that chips will be partially knocked off (rather than

 

fully cut off), with resulting splintering and gouging of the

It is also possible to spoil a cut by moving the router forward

workpiece. See Figure 10.

too slowly. When it is advanced into the work too slowly, a

Your Ryobi Router is an extremely high-speed tool (25,000

revolving bit does not dig into new wood fast enough to take

RPM no-load speed), and will make clean, smooth cuts if

a bite; instead, it simply scrapes away sawdust-like particles.

allowed to run freely without the overload of a forced (too

Scraping produces heat, which can glaze, burn, or mar the

fast) feed. Three things that cause “force feeding” are bit

cut— in extreme cases, can even overheat the bit so as to

size, depth-of-cut, and workpiece characteristics. The larger

destroy its hardness.

 

the bit or the deeper the cut, the more slowly the router

In addition, it is more difficult to control a router when the bit

should be advanced. If the wood is very hard, knotty, gummy

is scraping instead of cutting. With practically no load on the

or damp, the operation must be slowed still more.

motor the bit will be revolving at close to top RPM, and will

You can always detect “force feeding” by the sound of the

have a much greater than normal tendency to bounce off the

motor. Its high-pitched whine will sound lower and stronger

sides of the cut (especially, if the wood has a pronounced

as it loses speed. Also, the strain of holding the tool will be

grain with hard and soft areas). As a result, the cut produced

noticeably increased.

may have rippled, instead of straight sides. See Figure 10.

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Ryobi R180 specifications Routing, Proper Feeding, Rate of Feed, Force Feeding, TOO Slow Feeding