Model SB1224 | I N S T R U C T I O N S | Mfg. Since 1/11 |
Disassembly
1.Verify that registration marks have been made on the chuck and spindle. (Refer to Registration Marks section for details.)
2.Inspect the jaws and their slots to make sure they have matching numbers or marks. If none are found, stamp or scribe your own before continuing. (During
3.Use the chuck key to back out and remove the chuck jaws.
4.Unthread all chuck fasteners and separate the chuck halves, then remove the remaining chuck components to completely disassemble the chuck (see below).
Rear | Pinion |
Chuck Body | and |
and Fasteners | Retaining Pin |
Scroll Gear
Note: Some Features & | Front |
Fasteners are Excluded | |
for Clarity | Chuck Body |
Figure 11. Chuck components.
Inspection & Dressing
Inspect all components carefully for burrs, wear, scoring, bent parts, cracks, and thread damage.
Carefully inspect the chuck jaw clamping surface for tapered wear from front to back. For minor wear, jaw regrinding may be more economical than jaw replacement. If the taper is heavy,
or grip, or work holding accuracy is a problem, chuck replacement is likely required.
Burrs, dings, flakes, high spots, or galled surfaces can usually be removed by lightly dressing them away with diamond lapping boards or honing stones with lapping oil. Be sure not to change part dimensions while dressing surfaces. Thread damage can usually be corrected with files and thread chasing tools.
If any parts are overly worn, bent, cracked, or otherwise damaged, they must be replaced (if available). Never attempt to repair chuck components by welding them. If damaged parts are unavailable, replace the chuck. Continuing to use a chuck with damaged components will increase the risk of accidental death or serious injury. Do not risk it!
If replacing fasteners, make sure to use the same hardness or grade as the original fasteners that were installed on the chuck.
Cleaning
When cleaning chuck components, make sure to remove all grease, sludge, and metal particles using a brush and
Light rust can be removed in a blast cabinet with soda blasting media. For heavy rust, have the chuck components “hot tanked” at a local automotive machine shop (remove all
Reassembly
Brush all internal chuck components with a generous coat of chuck grease, but do not pack the chuck full of grease.
Make sure you only use approved chuck lubricants. Some lubricants can stain your chuck or have unintended reactions with cutting fluid, which will destroy their ability to properly lubricate the chuck.
To avoid stripping threads or cracking a casting, never use fasteners to draw components together and avoid using impact tools. Instead, be patient and properly seat the mating parts, then use hand tools and a recently calibrated torque wrench to tighten fasteners.