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SV Subwoofers
Phase. Think of bass waves as conflicting or enhancing each other, depending on the timing of their arrival at your listening location (either together, or not). Since some of your HT bass might come from main, center and/or surround speakers, as well as your sub, getting these bass wave forms to arrive in a com- plementary, enhancing fashion is the difficult job of the phase knob. Essen- tially this control varies the timing of the bass waves coming from the sub. You can tweak this endlessly and not hear much difference; but don’t despair, the effect of bass cancellation will vary by volume and frequency in your room, and no one setting is likely to ever be “perfect”. One simple technique to opti- mize phase is to find a nice “bassy” loop (such as the menu of “Godzilla”) and measure the loop’s bass response at various bass SPL peaks. As the loop runs, you can make gradual changes to the phase knob. Where you see the most re- sponse on a given bass passage is the phase setting providing the least bass cancellation in your room (for the frequencies of the demo loop you chose).
Line In/Out. Use one of the sub’s “Line In” jacks to connect the subwoofer to the output jack of your receiver/processor. Feeding one input is enough. If you are using a conventional amp and/or a stereo setup you can use the “Line Out” jacks to send sound (filtered of bass information) back to your system amp.
Bass Boost. Your Powered Cylinder is tuned “flat” so that no bass boost is needed to get it’s full natural extension. Still, you might find the +3dB or +6dB “bump” (centered on the 30Hz range) sounds good. This may be espe- cially true if you listen to movies at a relatively low level. Be advised that such a boost can significantly lower available amp
Crossover
Power (with LED). “Off” is off. “On” is (always) On. And “Auto” allows your sub to switch itself on or off depending on whether there is a bass signal fed to it. Even if there is NO signal fed to the sub in this mode, the sub’s amp takes few minutes to switch off (so it’s not continually going off and on in a movie!). It turns on in a split second from it’s “sleep” mode.
High level inputs/outputs. Not commonly used today, but binding posts are there in case you don’t have
A/C connection/Voltage Selector. Plug your sub into a dedicated A/C outlet. “Convenience” outlets of typical receivers often don’t provide the needed cur- rent. Select the correct voltage for your A/C system (115v. in USA).
Fuse. User replaceable with a 4 amp, 125 volt 5 x 20mm “Slow Blow” fuse. Fuses can be found at Radio Shack (Part Number
