Page 10 | SV Subwoofers |
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together, or not). Since some of your room’s bass might come from main, center and/or surround speakers, as well as your sub, getting these bass wave forms to arrive in a complementary fashion is the difficult job of the phase control. Essentially, “phase” varies the timing of the bass waves coming from the sub. But don’t despair if you don’t hear much difference, especially if running a single subwoofer. Bass “cancellation” will vary by room shape, volume, and the bass frequency. No one setting is likely to ever be perfect. One technique to optimize phase is to find a nice “bassy” loop (such as the menu of the “Godzilla” movie DVD) and measure the loop’s SPL response at various bass peaks. As the loop runs, you can have an assistant adjust the phase control in small steps while you measure. When you see the most response on a given bass passage, typically that’s the setting with the least cancellation (for the frequencies of the demo loop).
If you have a pair of subwoofers, calibrate with only one subwoofer on at a time. When finally switching on both SVS’s (assuming you calibrated both individually to the exact same level) you should have a combined reading of +6dB more than when one sub was playing. If you do not, have an assistant slowly move the phase on only one subwoofer a bit until you get about +6dB more than with one sub playing. This ensures your subs are not “canceling” each other out due to poor phase alignment. Again, all measurements must be from your prime viewing seat.
Line In. Use your sub’s “Line In” jack to connect the subwoofer to the output jack of your receiver/processor. A simple RCA to RCA cable is all you need.
Power. This
A/C connection. Plug your sub into a dedicated A/C outlet. “Convenience” outlets of typical receivers often don’t provide the needed current for your SVS high power amp. Avoid them.
Fuse. Mounted behind a small door near your cord, user replaceable (as spare is
