The refrigerator seems noisy
Refrigerator noise has been reduced over the years. Due to this reduction, you may hear intermittent noises from your new refrigerator that you did not notice from your old model. Below are listed some normal sounds with explanations.
■Buzzing - heard when the water valve opens to fill the ice maker
■Pulsating - fans/compressor adjusting to optimize performance
■Hissing/Rattling - flow of refrigerant, movement of water lines, or from items placed on top of the refrigerator
■Sizzling/Gurgling - water dripping on the heater during defrost cycle
■Popping - contraction/expansion of inside walls, especially during initial
■Water running - may be heard when ice melts during the defrost cycle and water runs into the drain pan
■Creaking/Cracking - occurs as ice is being ejected from the ice maker mold.
The doors will not close completely
■Door blocked open? Move food packages away from door.
■Bin or shelf in the way? Push bin or shelf back in the correct position.
The doors are difficult to open
WARNING
Explosion Hazard
Use nonflammable cleaner.
Failure to do so can result in death, explosion, or fire.
■Gaskets dirty or sticky? Clean gaskets and contact surfaces with mild soap and warm water. Rinse and dry with soft cloth.
Temperature and Moisture
Temperature is too warm
■New installation? Allow 24 hours following installation for the refrigerator to cool completely.
■Door(s) opened often or left open? Allows warm air to enter refrigerator. Minimize door openings and keep doors fully closed.
■Large load of food added? Allow several hours for refrigerator to return to normal temperature.
■Controls set correctly for the surrounding conditions? Adjust the controls a setting colder. Check temperature in 24 hours. See “Using the Control(s).”
There is interior moisture buildup
NOTE: Some moisture buildup is normal.
■Humid room? Contributes to moisture buildup.
■Door(s) opened often or left open? Allows humid air to enter refrigerator. Minimize door openings and keep doors fully closed.
Ice and Water
The ice maker is not producing ice or not enough ice
■Refrigerator connected to a water supply and the supply shutoff valve turned on? Connect refrigerator to water supply and turn water shutoff valve fully open.
■Kink in the water source line? A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line.
■Ice maker turned on? Make sure wire shutoff arm or switch (depending on model) is in the ON position.
■New installation? Wait 24 hours after ice maker installation for ice production to begin. Wait 72 hours for full ice production.
■Freezer door closed completely? Firmly close the freezer compartment door. If the freezer compartment door will not close all the way, see “The doors will not close completely.”
■Large amount of ice recently removed? Allow 24 hours for ice maker to produce more ice.
■Ice cube jammed in the ice maker ejector arm? Remove ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil.
■Water filter installed on the refrigerator? Remove filter and operate ice maker. If ice volume improves, then the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace filter or reinstall it correctly.
■Reverse osmosis water filtration system connected to your cold water supply? This can decrease water pressure. See “Water Supply Requirements.”
The ice cubes are hollow or small
NOTE: This is an indication of low water pressure.
■Water shutoff valve not fully open? Turn the water shutoff valve fully open.
■Kink in the water source line? A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line.
■Water filter installed on the refrigerator? Remove filter and operate ice maker. If ice quality improves, then the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace filter or reinstall it correctly.
■Reverse osmosis water filtration system connected to your cold water supply? This can decrease water pressure. See “Water Supply Requirements.”
■Questions remain regarding water pressure? Call a licensed, qualified plumber.
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