Wibur Curtis Company C1000APT Problem Water BOILING, Heating Elements do not Shut OFF

C1000AP & C1000APT Airpot Brewer

TROUBLE SHOOTING CONTINUED:

PROBLEM: WATER IN TANK DOES NOT REACH PROPER TEMPERATURE

	POSSIBLE CAUSE	SOLUTION
4.	Burned out heating element	In this coffee brewer there are two elements in parallel. Failure of either will cause very
		slow heating. Perform the following tests:
		a. Clamp-on ammeter test: If both elements are good, you will measure about 21
		amps at 240 volts or 24 amps at 208 volts. Use heavy wire from the contactor to
		measure the current. If you measure only 10 to 12 amps, check the current to each
		element to identify defective unit.
		b. Ohmmeter or continuity test: Disconnect all power by unplugging unit, or de-en
		ergizing circuit breaker (switch on back of unit does not disconnect L2). Disconnect
		one terminal to measure each element. They should each have continuity or mea-
		sure about 20 ohms.
PROBLEM: WATER BOILING, HEATING ELEMENTS DO NOT SHUT OFF.
	POSSIBLE CAUSE	SOLUTION
1.	Defective thermostat	If ready to brew light does not come on, replace thermostat. You can sometimes operate
		temporarily by turning the thermostat shaft counterclockwise until brew light comes on
		and boiling stops.
2.	Defective contactor	If READY TO BREW light comes on, but water keeps boiling, contactor is stuck. Replace
		it. Under this condition, no voltage should be present at the contactor coil.
PROBLEM: WATER NOT FLOWING FROM SPRAYHEAD.
	POSSIBLE CAUSE	SOLUTION
1. Water level is too low in heating		Check water level in tank (it should be filled up to the probe tip). If water does not flow
	tank.	into tank, review steps 1 thru 4, previous page.
2.	Defective brew switch	Check the continuity between terminal 4B & 5B. When the switch is pressed, there
		should be solid continuity between these two terminals. If not, replace the switch.
3.	Defective brew valve	Push the brew switch to start the timer. The light on this switch will indicate that the timer
		is on and it will energize the coil of the dump valve to open it. You should read 110/120V
		at the coil terminals. If this voltage is present but the valve does not open, the coil is
		burned out. Replace the coil or the valve.
4.	Clogged fittings or tubing	Check for lime buildup in the tank outlet fitting, sprayhead fitting, or the sprayhead. Clean
		as necessary. Also check for kinks or blockage in the flexible tubing.

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