EQUALIZING CAUTIONS!

Turn off sensitive electronics before equalizing.

Equalizing causes the battery to gas. You should check the battery electrolyte before and after equalization. Do not over-fill before equalization as the electrolyte may expand and cause it to flow over the tops. You should be present during this type of charging. Hydrogen and oxygen gas is generated during equalization. Make sure there is adequate ventilation.

Batteries should not be equalized every charge/discharge cycle. Normally, the battery is cycled between 50% charged and the 85% to 95% charged level reached by the normal Charge and Acceptance Cycle. Every 30 days, though, the batteries should be equalized to regain full capacity and extend life.

To equalize, first go through a complete Charge and Acceptance Cycle. Check the electrolyte level, but do not overfill. Re-check and top off the electrolyte after equalizing.

Remember, equalizing is constant current charging with a small regulated current that permits a higher maximum voltage. The goal is to use a small current and gradually let the battery rise to its maximum voltage.

EQUALIZING GELLED BATTERIES

Gelled batteries are not normally equalized. However, if the battery has been severely discharged, the voltage of the battery may easily reach the acceptance level with a very small current. In fact, the current may be less than the 2% required to terminate the Acceptance Cycle. This can cause the system to believe that the battery is full and switch to the Float Cycle. Equalization may be the only way to get the battery to accept a charge. Be sure that the battery TYPE # is set to #1 or #2 before using this cycle on gelled batteries. The equalization voltage is limited to the acceptance voltage but the cycle lasts for 3.5 hours. (Eight hours if using the Freedom charger.) Please consult your battery manufacturer regarding the appropriateness of this cycle for their batteries.

Neither the GREEN or the RED LED should be ON when the engine is off! If the RED LED is ON, and the green LED (labeled "ON") is OFF, it is an indication that the FET is shorted or the field is connected to some other source.

DO NOT OPERATE THE SYSTEM UNTIL THIS IS RESOLVED!

It is now time to start up the engine and see how everything works. For this test make sure the battery charger or any other charging sources are turned off. Partially discharge the batteries (remove at least 20% of the capacity—it may take a few hours at a relativity high discharge rate). Start the engine and watch the battery voltage to see that it raises to and levels off at about 14.4 (28.8) volts in the Acceptance Cycle. With thedefaultvalues,whenthebatterycurrentfallstoabout4amps(2%ofthebatterycapacity) the regulator will shift into the Float Cycle and maintain the batteries at the Float voltage. Also check the alternator current by pressing the TIME button and using a milliVolt meter to measure the voltage drop across the alternator shunt and comparing it to the reading on the LINK 2000-R. The milliVolt reading multiplied by ten should about equal the LINK 2000-R alternator current reading. The alternator current measurement is inherently less accurate than the battery current measurement—you may see up to + 3 amps error.

STANDBY REGULATORS

Part of our power system design philosophy is to consider spares and backup systems before they are needed. We have designed the Ideal Regulator with this in mind. The Ideal Regulator Output Module wiring harness is compatible with standard P- Field external regulators. Simply carry a spare regulator that is plug compatible and just unplug the Output Module and plug in your standby regulator. You may use a simple, adjustable, constant voltage regulator or we would suggest that you consider the Xantrex Incharge Regulator, which provides three-stage charging, plug compatibility, and is fully adjustable.

Install and test your standby regulator or any other spares you might carry before cruising!

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