WORKING TECHNIQUES
Remove any undergrowth from the base of the tree and check the area for obstacles (stones, branches, holes, etc.) so that you have a clear path of retreat when the tree starts to fall. Your path of retreat should be roughly 135 degrees away from the intended felling direction.
The line where the two cuts meet is called the directional cut line. This line should be perfectly horizontal and at right angles (90°) to the chosen felling direction.
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Retreat path |
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Felling
! | WARNING! Unless you have special |
training we advise you not to fell trees | |
| with a diameter larger than the bar length |
| of your saw! |
Felling is done using three cuts. First you make the directional cuts, which consist of the top cut and the bottom cut, then you finish with the felling cut. By placing these cuts correctly you can control the felling direction very accurately.
Directional cuts
To make the directional cut you begin with the top cut. Aim using to the saw’s felling direction mark (1) toward a goal further forward in the terrain, where you would like the tree to fall (2). Stand on the
Next make the bottom cut so that it finishes exactly at the end of the top cut.
The directional cuts should run 1/4 of the diameter through the trunk and the angle between the top cut and bottom cut should be 45°.
Felling cut
The felling cut is made from the opposite side of the tree and it must be perfectly horizontal. Stand on the left side of the tree and cut on the pull stroke.
Make the felling cut about
Finish the felling cut parallel with the directional cut line so that the distance between them is at least 1/10 of the trunk diameter. The uncut section of the trunk is called the felling hinge.
The felling hinge controls the direction that the tree falls in.
All control over the felling direction is lost if the felling hinge is too narrow or
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