3.Mark the outline of each slot on the hull. Mark the screw locations 1/8" from the bottom of each slot, and drill four holes 3/4" deep with a 9/64" drill. The slots in the bracket allow 5/8" of vertical adjustment which can be utilized to lower the transducer further into the water to achieve optimal performance.
4.Using the sheet metal screws provided, attach and tighten the bracket to the hull so that the transducer projects 1/8" below the underside of the hull. A marine sealant such as RTV should be applied to the threads of the screws to prevent water seepage into the transom. Align the transducer so that the rear is 1/16 to 1/8" lower than the forward point (bow). Tighten all bolts and screws.
5.Route the cable to the
Transducer Replacement/Identification Tag
On most transducers manufactured after 1987, the operating frequency and part number is attached to the cable or is printed on a mylar tag near the connector end. Do not remove this tag since it identifies the
transducer and will help you identify the operating frequency of the
transducer. The
Transducer Wetting
Immediately before launching your vessel, thoroughly wipe the face of the transducer with a detergent type liquid soap. This reduces the amount of time required for the transducer to establish good contact with the water. If this procedure is not followed, it may take several days for the complete “wetting” to occur, resulting in reduced performance of the instrument.
Transducer Painting
If a vessel is kept in saltwater, especially in the southern U.S., marine growth can accumulate rapidly on the transducer face and seriously reduce performance. If fouling does occur, use a stiff brush or putty knife to remove this growth. Wet sanding of the fouled transducer face is permissible with #220 or finer grade of wet or dry emery paper. (Use plenty of water.) Coating transducers with
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