9.Bevel ripping cuts should always be made with the fence on the right side of the saw blade so that the blade tilts away from the fence and minimizes the possibility of the work binding and the resulting kickback.
Rip Sawing
1.Ripping is where the work piece is fed with the grain into the saw blade using the fence as a guide and a positioning device to ensure the desired width of cut. See Figure 26.
Before starting a rip cut, be sure the fence is clamped securely and aligned properly.
Never rip freehand or use the miter gauge in combination with the fence.
Never rip workpieces shorter than the saw blade diameter.
Never reach behind the blade with either hand to hold down or remove the cutoff piece with the saw blade rotating.
2.Always use the saw guard, splitter and anti- kickback pawls. Make sure the splitter is properly aligned. When wood is cut along the grain, the kerf tends to close and bind on the blade and kickbacks can occur.
NOTE: A caution decal is installed on the guard and splitter assembly, warning of the hazard of misalignment.
3.The rip fence should be set for the width of the cut by using the scale on the front rail, or by measuring the distance between the blade and fence. See Figure 27. Stand out of line with the saw blade and workpiece to avoid sawdust and splinters coming off the blade or a kickback, if one should occur.
4.If the workpiece does not have a straight edge, provide one by nailing an auxiliary straight edged board on it to slide along the fence. To cut properly, the board must make good contact with the table. If it is warped, turn the hollow side down.
5.In ripping, use one hand to hold the board down against the fence or fixture, and the other to push it into the blade between the blade and the fence. If the workpiece is narrower than 6" or shorter than 12", use a push stick or push block to push it through between the fence and saw blade. See Figure 28.
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Figure 26
Figure 27
Figure 28